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Washer drum does not fill with water at the start of a cycle or fills extremely slowly, leaving clothes unwashed.
Only one temperature of water enters the tub — one solenoid coil has failed internally, preventing proper wash/rinse temperatures.
Washer keeps filling even with the lid closed or between cycles because the valve diaphragm is stuck open and cannot close.
Water drips or streams from the valve body or inlet hose connection points due to a cracked valve housing or failed internal seal.
Washer pauses or throws an error code mid-cycle because the control board detects insufficient water flow caused by a partially failed valve or clogged inlet screen.
💡 Pro Tip: Is Your Water Inlet Valve Failing?
Your part is likely the culprit if you notice any of the following:
⚠️ Washer won't fill with water or fills very slowly
⚠️ Only cold or only hot water enters — but not both
⚠️ Washer overfills continuously even when lid is closed
⚠️ Water leaks from the back of the washer near the inlet hose connections
🔍 Quick test: Unplug the washer, disconnect the inlet hoses, and use a multimeter to test solenoid continuity (should read 200–500 Ω). No continuity = valve is bad. Also check the inlet screens for mineral scale — clogged screens mimic a failed valve.
📦 What's in the Box
✅ 1× Water Inlet Valve & Vacuum Break Assembly (110/120V, 60Hz, hot/cold dual solenoid)
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Disclaimer: Compatibility information, part numbers, and model fitment data on this page are sourced from manufacturer databases and third-party references. While we strive for accuracy, please verify your appliance model number before ordering. Heima is not responsible for errors or omissions in compatibility listings.
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