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The washer tub remains empty at cycle start because the inlet valve solenoid coil has failed open-circuit and cannot open to admit water.
Water trickles in much slower than normal — typically caused by clogged inlet screens from mineral buildup or a weakening solenoid that cannot fully open the valve.
Water keeps entering the tub even when the cycle doesn't call for it, indicating the valve diaphragm is stuck open due to debris or internal wear.
Only one temperature of water enters the washer — the corresponding solenoid coil (hot or cold) has failed, producing unbalanced wash temperatures.
Water drips from the valve body or hose connection points at the rear of the machine, caused by cracked valve housing, deteriorated gaskets, or loose hose fittings.
💡 Pro Tip: How to Know Your Inlet Valve Has Failed
Your part is likely the culprit if you notice any of the following:
⚠️ Washer tub does not fill with water at the start of the cycle
⚠️ Tub fills very slowly or only partially during wash or rinse
⚠️ Water continues to flow in when the washer is off (overfill / valve stuck open)
⚠️ Only cold or only hot water enters — unbalanced temperature fill
⚠️ Visible dripping or leaking at the back of the machine near the hose connections
🔍 Quick test: Set a multimeter to Ω and probe each solenoid terminal pair. A healthy solenoid reads roughly 200–500 Ω; an open or shorted coil (0 Ω or OL) confirms the valve must be replaced. Also check the inlet screens — mineral deposits from hard water can clog the mesh and mimic a failed valve.
📦 What's in the Box
✅ 1× Top Load Washer Water Inlet Valve Assembly (dual solenoid + thermistor, replaces W10683603 / WPW10683603)
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Disclaimer: Compatibility information, part numbers, and model fitment data on this page are sourced from manufacturer databases and third-party references. While we strive for accuracy, please verify your appliance model number before ordering. Heima is not responsible for errors or omissions in compatibility listings.
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