How to Replace W10683603 Water Inlet Valve on Whirlpool Washer — Step-by-Step

You start a load of laundry, and nothing happens. The drum sits there empty while the timer counts down. Or worse—you hear water rushing, then find a puddle spreading across your laundry room floor. If your Whirlpool washer (models like WTW4715EW0, WTW4800XQ4, or WTW4810EW0) won't fill with water or is leaking from the back, you're likely dealing with a failed inlet valve. The W10683603 valve controls both hot and cold water flow into your washer's tub, and when the solenoids inside burn out or the seals crack, it stops working.

What You Need Before Starting

This repair takes about 30-45 minutes and requires basic tools you probably already own:

• 1/4-inch nut driver or socket wrench
• Needle-nose pliers
• Bucket or towels (for residual water)
• Flashlight (optional, but helpful)

Difficulty: Easy — No special skills needed, just patience.

Estimated Time: 30-45 minutes

Safety First

Before you touch anything, unplug your washer from the wall outlet. If it's hardwired, flip the breaker. Then turn off both the hot and cold water supply valves behind the machine—they're usually red and blue knobs. Keep towels handy because even after shutting off water, there's always some left in the hoses. You don't want that surprise on your floor.

Step 1: Disconnect the Water Supply Lines

Pull your washer away from the wall to access the back panel. You'll see two hoses connected to the inlet valve—one hot, one cold. Use pliers to loosen the compression fittings where they attach to the valve. Turn counterclockwise. Have your bucket ready because trapped water will dribble out. Once loose, set the hoses aside. You might see mineral buildup or corrosion on the valve threads—that's normal for older machines.

Step 2: Remove the Back Access Panel

Most Whirlpool top-loaders have 4-6 screws around the perimeter of the back panel. Use your 1/4-inch nut driver to remove them. The panel should lift right off. Now you can see the inlet valve mounted at the top right corner, with wiring harnesses plugged into the solenoids and an internal hose running down to the tub.

Step 3: Disconnect Electrical and Internal Hoses

The inlet valve has two wire connectors—one for hot, one for cold water solenoids. Press the locking tabs and pull them straight off. Don't yank on the wires themselves. Next, locate the internal fill hose (usually a thick rubber or plastic tube) connected to the bottom of the valve. Squeeze the spring clamp with pliers and slide it back, then wiggle the hose free. Expect more water to spill here—that's why you brought towels.

Step 4: Unbolt and Remove the Old Valve

The valve is held in place by 2-3 mounting screws or bolts. Remove these with your nut driver. Once loose, the valve should pull straight out from its mounting bracket. Inspect the old valve—if you see cracks in the plastic housing, corroded solenoids, or white mineral deposits clogging the screens, you've confirmed why it failed. This valve (W10683603) is notorious for leaking when those internal rubber diaphragms wear out.

Step 5: Install the New W10683603 Valve

Position your new valve in the mounting bracket exactly how the old one sat. Thread the mounting screws back in and tighten them snug—not gorilla-tight, just firm. Reconnect the internal fill hose and slide the spring clamp back into position. Plug both wire harnesses back onto the solenoid terminals—they only fit one way, so you can't mess this up. Finally, thread the hot and cold water supply hoses back onto the valve's inlet ports. Hand-tighten first, then give them a quarter-turn with pliers. Don't overtighten or you'll crack the plastic threads.

Testing After Installation

Turn the water supply valves back on slowly—listen for leaks. Check all your connections at the valve. If everything's dry, plug the washer back in and run a quick rinse cycle without clothes. Watch the back of the machine during the fill cycle. Water should flow smoothly into the tub without any dripping from the valve body or hose connections. If you see leaks, shut everything down and retighten that connection.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why does my washer fill slowly even with a new inlet valve?

Check the mesh screens inside the valve's inlet ports—they catch sediment from your water supply and can clog over time. Unscrew the supply hoses and use a toothbrush to clean those screens. Low home water pressure can also cause slow filling, but that's a plumbing issue, not the valve.

Will this valve work on Maytag or Kenmore washers?

Yes. The W10683603 is a direct replacement for multiple brands that share the same platform—Whirlpool, Maytag, Amana, and some Kenmore models like the 110 series. Check your model number against the compatibility list, but if your old valve looks identical and has the same mounting holes, you're good.

How do I know if the valve solenoids are working?

Use a multimeter to test for continuity across the solenoid terminals. You should get a reading between 500-1500 ohms. If it reads infinite or zero, the solenoid coil is shot. But honestly, if you've already pulled the valve out, just replace it—testing takes almost as long as swapping in a new one.