


Dryer drum spins and fan runs but produces zero heat — the hi-limit thermostat has tripped or failed open, cutting power to the heating element.
Clothes come out extremely hot or the dryer feels dangerously warm — the thermostat is stuck closed and no longer shutting off the heating element at the correct temperature.
Dryer stops running before the cycle completes, often due to the thermostat intermittently tripping from fatigue or partial failure.
Clothes remain damp after a full cycle because the thermostat is cycling erratically, preventing the drum from reaching and holding the correct drying temperature.
On some models a failed thermostat assembly can interrupt the control circuit and prevent the dryer from powering on at all.




💡 Pro Tip: Diagnosing a Failed Hi-Limit Thermostat
Your part is likely the culprit if you notice any of the following:
⚠️ Dryer runs but produces no heat at all
⚠️ Dryer shuts off mid-cycle unexpectedly
⚠️ Dryer overheats — clothes extremely hot or scorched
⚠️ Extended drying times due to inconsistent or intermittent heating
🔍 Before ordering, set your multimeter to continuity/resistance mode and probe across the two main terminals of the thermostat. A good thermostat reads near-zero ohms (closed circuit) at room temperature. An open reading (OL/infinite) confirms failure. Always replace the thermal fuse (6931EL3003D) at the same time — they typically fail together.
📦 What's in the Box
✅ 1× Hi-Limit Thermostat Assembly with Mounting Bracket (L125-31C, 250V/25A, 3-Terminal)
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Disclaimer: Compatibility information, part numbers, and model fitment data on this page are sourced from manufacturer databases and third-party references. While we strive for accuracy, please verify your appliance model number before ordering. Heima is not responsible for errors or omissions in compatibility listings.
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