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Washer fills and agitates normally but the drum refuses to spin — the lid switch has failed to signal the control that the lid is safely closed.
Water remains in the tub after the wash cycle because the machine will not advance to drain without a valid lid-closed signal from the switch.
Pressing the start button produces no response; the washer will not begin any cycle because the open-lid safety interlock is permanently triggered.
Timer or cycle selector moves but the machine stalls between stages and requires manual advancement — a failing lid switch contact causes intermittent cycle interruption.
Washer only runs after repeatedly opening and closing the lid or pressing down on it, indicating worn or corroded switch contacts that make inconsistent contact.
💡 Pro Tip: How to Confirm Your Lid Switch Has Failed
Your part is likely the culprit if you notice any of the following:
⚠️ Washer fills and agitates but will NOT spin or drain
⚠️ Machine does not start any cycle even when lid is firmly closed
⚠️ Washer only runs if you hold the lid down or jiggle it repeatedly
⚠️ Cycle stalls mid-wash and will not advance to the next stage
🔍 Diagnosis Tip: Set a multimeter to continuity mode. With the lid closed (switch lever depressed), you should read continuity/closed circuit between the two main terminals. An open reading with the lid closed confirms a failed switch. Replace immediately to restore full wash-cycle function.
📦 What's in the Box
✅ 1× Washer Lid Switch Assembly (3949247 / 3949247V) with 3-Wire Harness, 27" leads, and terminal plug — Gray/Green plastic housing, 3"L × 2-1/4"W × 1-1/4"H
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Disclaimer: Compatibility information, part numbers, and model fitment data on this page are sourced from manufacturer databases and third-party references. While we strive for accuracy, please verify your appliance model number before ordering. Heima is not responsible for errors or omissions in compatibility listings.
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