Whirlpool Washer Lid Switch Assembly Parts — Models & Compatibility

Your Whirlpool washer won't start even though you've closed the lid firmly. Maybe it won't advance past the fill cycle, or it's stuck mid-wash refusing to drain. Before you call a repair tech, check the lid switch assembly—it's the safety mechanism that tells your washer the lid is closed and safe to operate. When it fails, your washer thinks the lid is always open.

This guide covers the 3949247 lid switch assembly that fits over 100 Whirlpool, Kenmore, KitchenAid, and Roper top-load washer models. If your model number starts with LSR, LSB, GSQ, RAX, or 110, you're likely in the right place.

Is This the Right Part for Your Model?

The 3949247 lid switch assembly (also replaces part numbers 3949247V, AP5983746, 3949237, 3949239, and PS11722098) works across multiple brands because Whirlpool manufactures washers for Kenmore, KitchenAid, and Roper. Your model number is stamped on a white or silver sticker—usually inside the washer lid rim or behind the control panel. Look for alphanumeric codes like LSR5232LQ0 or 110.28803890.

Here's a quick compatibility check: if your washer is a top-load model made between 2005-2015 and shows symptoms like refusing to start, not draining, or the cycle not advancing, this switch is probably your culprit.

About This Replacement Part

The lid switch assembly is a mechanical safety device mounted under the washer's top panel near the lid hinge. When you close the lid, a plastic actuator arm pushes against the switch to complete an electrical circuit. The problem? That plastic actuator becomes brittle over time. Close the lid too hard, run an unbalanced load that shakes the washer violently, or just deal with years of normal wear—and snap, the actuator breaks. Now your washer thinks the lid's perpetually open and refuses to operate.

Common failure symptoms include the washer not starting at all, stopping mid-cycle without draining, refusing to agitate or spin, or the control panel going completely unresponsive. Some users report their washer fills with water but won't do anything else—that's the lid switch preventing the drum from spinning with what the machine thinks is an open lid.

Compatible Model Series

This lid switch works across several Whirlpool-manufactured washer lines. The LSR series (like LSR5232LQ0, LSR8233JQ0, LSR5132JQ0) represents Whirlpool's standard residential top-loaders. The LSB series (LSB6200KQ0, LSB6300PW2) includes higher-capacity models. You'll also find compatibility with GSQ series units (GSQ9344EZ0), Roper RAX models (RAX7244JQ0), and dozens of Kenmore 110-prefix models (110.28803890, 11024622300, 11010202000).

Kenmore model numbers that start with 110.2, 110.4, or 110.6 are typically Whirlpool-made and use this exact switch. The cross-brand compatibility comes from Whirlpool's practice of using identical internal components across their brand family.

Installation Overview

Replacing the lid switch takes less than 15 minutes with basic tools—a nutdriver and screwdrivers. You'll need to unplug the washer, remove the main top by releasing two clips at the front corners, disconnect the wire harness from the old switch, unbolt the mounting screws, and reverse the process with your new assembly. One user mentioned, "I followed the repair video and everything was fine the switch change went without a hitch."

The trickiest part isn't mechanical—it's positioning the actuator arm so it aligns properly with the lid's striker tab. If it's misaligned by even a quarter-inch, your washer still won't recognize a closed lid. Test the switch before reassembling everything by gently pressing the actuator arm while the washer is plugged in—you should hear a click and see the control panel light up.

Models Using This Part

Below is a sample of compatible models. This isn't exhaustive—over 100 models use this switch:

• LSR5232LQ0 — Whirlpool
• LSB6200KQ0 — Whirlpool
• LSR8233JQ0 — Whirlpool
• GSQ9344EZ0 — Whirlpool
• LSR5132JQ0 — Whirlpool
• 110.28803890 — Kenmore
• 11024622300 — Kenmore
• RAX7244JQ0 — Roper
• LSB6300PW2 — Whirlpool
• 11010202000 — Kenmore
• 11010202001 — Kenmore
• 1101050299 — Kenmore
• 11010502990 — Kenmore

If your model isn't listed here, check the sticker inside your washer lid—if it's a Whirlpool-made top-loader from the mid-2000s to mid-2010s, this switch likely fits. You can also compare the physical mounting points on your current switch to the product photos.

Diagnosing a Failed Lid Switch

Before ordering, confirm the lid switch is actually your problem. Unplug the washer, remove the top panel, and locate the switch assembly near the lid hinge. With the washer still unplugged, press the actuator arm manually—it should click audibly. If there's no click, or if the plastic arm is visibly cracked or broken, you've found your issue.

For a more definitive test, use a multimeter set to continuity mode. Disconnect the wire harness, touch the probes to the switch terminals, and press the actuator. The meter should beep when pressed (circuit closed) and go silent when released (circuit open). No beep when pressed means the internal contacts are failed.

Why This Part Fails

The plastic actuator arm is the weak point. It's designed to flex slightly each time the lid closes, but that repeated stress causes fatigue cracks. Close the lid harder than usual—maybe you're in a hurry or frustrated with a stubborn load—and those cracks become full breaks. Unbalanced loads make it worse: when a heavy wet towel load throws the drum off-balance, the entire washer cabinet shakes, and internal components like the lid switch get battered by repeated impacts.

Heat cycling from the washer's location (like a hot garage or laundry room) accelerates plastic degradation. UV exposure if your washer is near a window doesn't help either. Most lid switches last 8-12 years under normal use, but aggressive lid-closing or consistently unbalanced loads can cut that to 5-6 years.

Price and Availability

The 3949247 lid switch assembly retails for $56.99, which is considerably cheaper than a service call. Most appliance repair shops charge $150-200 for this repair—$95 for the service call, $40-50 for the part (at their markup), and labor. DIY installation saves you about $100 and takes only 15 minutes once you've watched a tutorial video.

The part ships quickly since it's a high-demand item. Most distributors keep inventory because lid switch failures are among the top five most common washer repairs. Order from a supplier that offers a return policy in case you receive a defective unit or accidentally order the wrong part—though with the 3949247's broad compatibility, that's unlikely if you've got a Whirlpool-family top-loader.