








Coil surface element produces no heat at all despite the switch being turned on — caused by burned or corroded receptacle contacts breaking the electrical circuit.
Element heats to full red-hot intensity regardless of the dial position, indicating a fused or welded receptacle contact that cannot open to reduce current.
Burner heats inconsistently, cutting in and out during cooking — caused by loose, pitted, or partially melted prong sockets losing contact with the element prongs.
Visible melting, black carbon scoring, or arcing damage on the receptacle body and lead wires, indicating overheating at the connection point.
💡 Pro Tip: How to Diagnose a Faulty Burner Receptacle
Your part is likely the culprit if you notice any of the following:
⚠️ Surface burner does not heat at all, even though the infinite switch clicks normally
⚠️ Burner runs at full red-hot heat regardless of the dial setting (stuck high)
⚠️ Visible burn marks, melted plastic, or carbon scoring on the receptacle body or prong sockets
⚠️ Intermittent heating — burner works sometimes but cuts out unexpectedly
🔍 Diagnosis tip: Pull the coil element straight up and out, then inspect the two prong sockets inside the receptacle. If you see blackening, pitting, or melted material, the receptacle is the cause — not the element or switch. Swap the receptacle first; it's the cheapest and easiest fix.
📦 What's in the Box
✅ 1× Surface Burner Receptacle & Wire Kit (2-prong socket with pre-attached lead wires, compatible with 8" coil elements)
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Disclaimer: Compatibility information, part numbers, and model fitment data on this page are sourced from manufacturer databases and third-party references. While we strive for accuracy, please verify your appliance model number before ordering. Heima is not responsible for errors or omissions in compatibility listings.
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