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Washer drum fails to fill at the start of a cycle or fills only partially, triggering a 4E water supply error code.
Cold water trickles in far below the normal rate, causing cycles to time out or take much longer than expected.
Machine pauses during the wash or rinse fill phase and cannot resume because the valve solenoid has failed open or closed.
Cracked valve body or failed internal seal allows water to drip behind the front panel even when the washer is idle.
A valve solenoid stuck in the open position allows water to enter the drum continuously, leading to overflow and error codes.
💡 Pro Tip: How to Confirm a Faulty Water Inlet Valve
Your part is likely the culprit if you notice any of the following:
⚠️ Washer shows 4E (water supply error) or IE error code at start of cycle
⚠️ Drum fills very slowly or does not fill with water at all
⚠️ Washer stops mid-cycle and displays a water inlet fault
⚠️ Continuous trickling or dripping into drum even when machine is off (valve stuck open)
Before ordering, set your multimeter to resistance (Ω) mode and probe each solenoid coil terminal on the old valve. A reading outside 200–500 Ω, or an open circuit (OL), confirms the solenoid has failed and replacement is needed. Also check the inlet filter screen — a clogged screen can mimic a bad valve.
📦 What's in the Box
✅ 1× DC62-00024F Cold Water Inlet Valve Assembly (AC220-240V, 1-IN 2-OUT, with bracket)
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Disclaimer: Compatibility information, part numbers, and model fitment data on this page are sourced from manufacturer databases and third-party references. While we strive for accuracy, please verify your appliance model number before ordering. Heima is not responsible for errors or omissions in compatibility listings.
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