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Washer fills and agitates normally but stops before spin cycle — the lid lock assembly is not sending the closed-lid signal to the timer or control board.
Water stays in the tub after the wash or rinse cycle because the machine cannot confirm the lid is locked and will not advance to drain/spin.
Washer has power and the timer is set, but the machine does not begin the cycle — a failed lid switch prevents the control circuit from energizing.
Drain pump runs and empties the tub, but the drum never reaches spin speed because the lid lock solenoid fails to engage and release the spin interlock.
The lid remains mechanically locked at the end of the wash cycle and cannot be opened — the solenoid is stuck engaged due to internal failure of the lock assembly.
💡 Pro Tip: How to Know Your Lid Lock Assembly Has Failed
Your part is likely the culprit if you notice any of the following:
⚠️ Washer fills and agitates but refuses to spin or drain
⚠️ Washer will not start at all even though it has power
⚠️ Lid locks but the machine still won't advance past the wash cycle
⚠️ Lid lock solenoid does not click or engage when the cycle starts
🔍 Diagnosis tip: Raise the washer top and test continuity through the lid switch terminals with a multimeter. No continuity with the lid closed = failed switch. Also inspect the wiring connectors for burn marks or loose pins before condemning the assembly — a burned connector can cause a new switch to fail after just one cycle.
📦 What's in the Box
✅ 1× Lid Lock Switch Assembly (130 × 84 × 59 mm, 4-wire, with updated mounting bracket and instructions)
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Disclaimer: Compatibility information, part numbers, and model fitment data on this page are sourced from manufacturer databases and third-party references. While we strive for accuracy, please verify your appliance model number before ordering. Heima is not responsible for errors or omissions in compatibility listings.
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