How to Extend Your Whirlpool Washer Lid Lock Strike Life — W10240513 Maintenance Guide

Here's something most people don't realize: the lid lock strike on your Whirlpool, Maytag, or Kenmore top-load washer should last 8-10 years, but most fail around the 5-year mark. That's because a small piece of plastic gets hit hundreds of times during every wash cycle, and nobody thinks about it until the washer won't start.

The W10240513 lid lock strike sits under your washer lid and takes the impact every single time you close it. It's a simple part — just a plastic hook that the lid latch grabs onto — but when it cracks or loosens, your entire washer shuts down with a "lid not locked" error.

How Long Should It Last?

Under normal conditions, this lid strike should give you 8-10 years of service. That's roughly 2,000-2,500 wash cycles if you're doing 5 loads a week. But I've seen them fail in as little as 3 years on machines that get heavy use or have alignment issues.

What kills them early? Three things:

• Slamming the lid — Creates stress fractures in the plastic mounting points
• Detergent buildup — Sticky residue prevents smooth engagement with the latch mechanism
• Loose mounting screws — Lets the strike shift position slightly, causing uneven wear

Models like the WTW4800XQ series, WTW4810EW series, and WTW4816FW series all use this same strike design. If you've got a Maytag Bravos (like the MVWX500BW0) or similar Amana/Kenmore model, you're dealing with the identical part.

Signs It's Wearing Out

The tricky thing about lid strike failures is they often look fine from the outside. You'll notice the symptoms before you see the damage.

Washer Won't Start (Most Common)

You close the lid, press start, and... nothing. The control panel might light up, but the washer refuses to fill or agitate. That's because the lid lock assembly can't engage with a worn or misaligned strike. The machine thinks the lid is open for safety reasons.

One user with a Maytag Bravos described it perfectly: "My washer was not agitating properly and was not spinning at all." They replaced the strike along with other parts, and the machine "runs just like it did when it was brand new."

Lid Won't Close Properly

If your lid feels loose or doesn't click firmly when you close it, the strike has likely shifted or the mounting screws have backed out. You might be able to close it most of the way, but it won't latch securely enough to satisfy the lock mechanism.

Check this by opening the lid and looking at the strike from above — it should be perfectly centered in the opening. If it's crooked or sits at an angle, you've found your problem.

Intermittent Locking Issues

Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. You might have to close the lid two or three times before the washer recognizes it's locked. This usually means the plastic is cracked but hasn't completely broken yet, or there's enough play in the mounting that it only lines up occasionally.

Don't ignore this — it's going to fail completely soon, probably right before you need to wash something important.

Maintenance Schedule That Actually Works

Most people never touch this part until it breaks. That's a mistake, because five minutes of attention every few months can double its lifespan.

After Every 20-30 Loads (Monthly for Most People)

Open the lid and wipe down the strike area with a damp cloth. You're looking for detergent residue, fabric softener buildup, or lint accumulation. These create friction and prevent smooth engagement.

While you're there, visually inspect the plastic for cracks. They usually start at the screw holes where the strike attaches to the washer frame.

Every 6 Months

Check the mounting screws. You'll need a Phillips-head screwdriver — the same one you'd use for the replacement if this thing ever fails. Give each screw a quarter-turn to make sure they're snug. Don't overtighten; you're working with plastic here.

Test the lid lock mechanism by closing the lid slowly and listening for a clean, solid click. If it sounds crunchy or hesitant, something's wearing out.

Annually

This is when you actually remove the strike for a thorough inspection. It's held in by just two screws, takes 30 seconds to remove, and gives you a clear view of any stress cracks or wear patterns.

While it's out, clean both the strike and the mounting area with rubbing alcohol. This removes any oily residue that might cause it to loosen over time.

When to Replace vs Maintain

Here's the honest truth: if you see any cracks in the plastic, replace it. Don't try to maintain a damaged part. The W10240513 costs under $20, takes 15 minutes to install, and prevents the frustration of a washer that won't start.

As one DIYer put it after fixing their machine: "I saved $600.00 dollars for simply trying it." They were comparing it to a service call where a tech would've charged for diagnosis, the part, and labor.

Replace immediately if:

• You see visible cracks anywhere on the strike
• The mounting holes are elongated or stripped
• The plastic feels brittle or has changed color (usually from heat)
• It's been failing intermittently for more than a week

Keep maintaining if:

• The plastic looks solid with no cracks
• Screws stay tight between check-ups
• The lid locks consistently every time
• You're under 5 years of ownership with normal use

One family had their "handy teenage son" replace both the latch assembly and strike following video instructions. "The washer is back to working perfectly for under $100." That's the kind of repair that makes sense to DIY — simple, cheap, and way better than replacing the whole machine.

Compatible Models That Use This Strike

This W10240513 strike fits dozens of Whirlpool-family washers. If you've got a WTW4800XQ (any version from 0-5), WTW4810EW series, WTW4816FW series, or WTW4855HW, this is your part. It also works with Maytag Bravos models, most Amana top-loaders from 2010-2020, and Kenmore 110 series washers built by Whirlpool.

The part replaces several older numbers: WPW10240513, AP6017583, PS11750882, 1873013, AP4514459, and PS2579805. If your repair guide lists any of those, the W10240513 is the current replacement.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I adjust the strike instead of replacing it?

Sometimes, yes. If the strike isn't cracked but your lid won't lock, try loosening the mounting screws, repositioning it slightly toward the center of the opening, and retightening. This works if the strike has shifted but isn't damaged. Test by closing the lid slowly — you should feel it engage cleanly without forcing it.

Why does my washer work sometimes but not others?

Intermittent failures usually mean the strike has a hairline crack that flexes when you close the lid. Sometimes it lines up enough to lock, sometimes it doesn't. This will get worse quickly — plan on replacing it within the next few weeks before it fails completely mid-cycle.

Do I need to replace the lid latch assembly too?

Not usually. The strike is what wears out because it takes all the impact. The latch assembly (the powered part that does the actual locking) typically lasts much longer. Replace the strike first — if that doesn't fix it, then consider the latch assembly. One user replaced both "to play it safe," but in most cases, the strike alone solves the problem.