How to Replace W10613606 Compressor Start Device & Capacitor on Whirlpool Refrigerator — Step-by-Step

You walk into your kitchen and notice something's off. Your Whirlpool refrigerator is running constantly, making a clicking sound every few minutes, but nothing's getting cold. The compressor tries to start, clicks, then gives up. Nine times out of ten, that's your start device and capacitor calling it quits. The W10613606 is the combo unit that gets your compressor motor spinning — when it fails, your fridge becomes an expensive food warmer.

This repair looks intimidating because you're working near the compressor, but it's actually one of the more straightforward fixes. The entire start device assembly unplugs from the compressor relay — no soldering, no refrigerant handling. Just unplug the old, plug in the new. If you can change a light fixture, you can do this.

What You Need Before Starting

Tools required:

• 1/4" nut driver or socket
• Flathead screwdriver
• Needle-nose pliers (optional but helpful)
• Flashlight or work light
• Gloves (those metal edges are sharp)

Repair time: 25-35 minutes
Difficulty: Moderate

Works on GX5FHDXTB01, GX5FHDXTQ01, EB9FVBLVS00, GB2SHDXPB01, MZD2665HEB, and dozens of other Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Amana, and Kenmore models. Check your model number against the compatibility list — this part replaces AP5787784, W10416065, 67003186, and PS8746522.

Safety First

Unplug the refrigerator completely. Not "turn off the ice maker" — actually pull the plug from the wall. You're working directly on electrical components connected to the compressor motor, which draws serious amperage. If you can't reach the outlet, flip the breaker. Wait five minutes before touching anything to let capacitors discharge. The capacitor in this assembly stores electrical charge even when unplugged, so treat it with respect.

Step 1: Access the Compressor Compartment

Pull your fridge away from the wall — you need about three feet of clearance to work comfortably. The compressor is in the lower back section, covered by a metal panel. On most Whirlpool models, this panel has 4-6 screws around the perimeter. Remove them with your 1/4" nut driver and set the panel aside. You'll see the compressor (black cylinder), condenser coils, and the start device hanging off the side of the compressor.

Step 2: Locate and Disconnect the Old Start Device

The W10613606 assembly sits on the compressor relay pins — it's a black box about 3 inches square with wires coming out. First, disconnect the wire harness that plugs into the top of it. Press the tab and pull straight out. Now look at how the device mounts to the compressor. There's usually a metal clip or bracket holding it in place. On some models, you just pull it straight off the relay pins. On others, you'll need to pry a small metal retaining clip with your flathead screwdriver.

Here's the trick: these units get hot during normal operation, so they can stick to the relay pins. Rock it gently side to side while pulling straight out. Don't twist it — those relay pins will bend, and then you've got a bigger problem.

Step 3: Inspect the Relay Pins

With the old start device removed, check those relay pins on the compressor. They should be straight, clean, and free of corrosion. If you see black carbon buildup or pitting, clean them with fine sandpaper or a wire brush. Bent pins? Carefully straighten them with needle-nose pliers — they need to be perfectly aligned for the new device to seat properly. This is the part everyone skips and regrets later when the new unit doesn't make solid contact.

Step 4: Install the W10613606 Assembly

Take your new W10613606 out of the package. Notice how the terminals inside line up with those relay pins — there's only one way it fits. Line it up square and push firmly until it seats completely. You should feel it click into place. If it won't go, don't force it. Pull it back off, check pin alignment again, and try once more. Once it's seated, reinstall any retaining clips or brackets you removed.

Now reconnect the wire harness. It clicks in with a satisfying snap. Give it a light tug to make sure it's locked — a loose connection here will give you the exact same symptoms you started with.

Step 5: Reassemble and Test

Replace the lower back panel and drive all the screws back in. Don't leave it off "temporarily" — that panel is part of the airflow design. Push the fridge back into position and plug it in. Within 30 seconds, you should hear the compressor start up and run smoothly. No clicking, no stuttering. Let it run for 10 minutes, then check the evaporator fan inside the freezer. You should feel cold air moving.

Testing After Installation

Give your refrigerator 2-3 hours to pull down to temperature. Check the freezer first — should hit 0°F within a few hours. The fresh food section will take longer, but you should feel it getting noticeably colder within the first hour. Listen for that clicking sound. If it's gone and the compressor runs continuously for 10-15 minutes at a time, you nailed it.

If the clicking persists, you've got one of three issues: the new device isn't fully seated on the relay pins, there's a wiring connection that's not fully clicked in, or (rarely) your compressor itself has internal problems. Double-check your connections before assuming the worst.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I know if I need the start device or the whole compressor?

If your compressor clicks but won't start, or runs for a few seconds then stops, it's almost always the start device. A completely failed compressor won't make any sound at all, or it'll hum continuously without clicking. The start device is the $50 fix. The compressor is the $800 "time to buy a new fridge" conversation. Always try the start device first.

Can I use a generic start device instead of the W10613606?

Technically yes, but here's the reality: generic "universal" start devices require you to match capacitor ratings and wire them correctly. The W10613606 is a plug-and-play unit specifically designed for your compressor's specs. For the price difference (usually $10-15), the OEM part is worth it. No guessing, no wiring diagrams, no callbacks when it doesn't work right.

Why does this part fail so often?

Heat cycles and electrical stress. Every time your compressor starts, that capacitor takes a hit. Over 5-8 years, it degrades. The relay contacts pit and corrode. It's a wear item, like brake pads on your car. Some refrigerators go 15 years without needing one. Others need replacement every 5-6 years. Depends on how often your compressor cycles and whether you've got clean power coming into the house.