How to Replace the DG47-00063A Dual Radiant Surface Element on a Samsung Electric Range
Always unplug the range or flip the dedicated 240V breaker before you touch anything inside the rear panel. Turning the knob off does NOT cut power to the terminals.
Your Samsung range burner stopped heating. Maybe it turns on — the knob clicks, the indicator light comes on — but the glass never gets warm. Or maybe only the small inner ring works and the outer zone is dead. Either way, you've probably already Googled "DG47-00063A" and landed here.
Good news: this is one of the easiest appliance repairs a homeowner can do. You don't need to know anything about electricity. You don't need special tools. The whole job takes about 15 to 20 minutes, and the hardest part is remembering to take a photo before you unplug anything.
This guide walks you through every step, written for someone doing this for the first time.
Before you order the part — confirm the element is actually the problem
The DG47-00063A is the right repair if you're seeing any of these:
- The burner knob turns and the "hot surface" light comes on, but the glass never heats up
- Only one ring heats — the inner 6-inch zone works but the outer 9-inch zone doesn't, or vice versa
- The hot surface light stays on even after you turn the burner off and the glass has cooled
- You can see visible cracks, scorch marks, or breaks on the element coil when you look through the glass
If the burner knob does absolutely nothing — no click, no indicator light, nothing at all — the problem is more likely the infinite switch (the control behind the knob) rather than the element itself. The element is the right fix when there's power to the burner but no heat.
Quick multimeter check (optional but recommended): Set your meter to resistance (Ω) mode. Unplug the range, access the element from the rear (you'll see how to do this below), and touch the meter probes to the element's terminal posts. A working element gives you a number — anything from 15Ω to 60Ω is normal. If you get "OL" or the display shows no reading at all, the element coil is broken and definitely needs replacing.
What you need
Tools:
- #2 Phillips screwdriver — for the two screws holding the back panel, and the element mounting bracket
- Needle-nose pliers — to pull the wire connectors off without yanking on the wires themselves
- Work gloves — the element edges and bracket can be sharp, especially on an older range
- Your phone — for photos in Step 3. This is not optional.
Part: DG47-00063A Dual Radiant Surface Element — 10 inches, 240V, 1400W dual-zone (6" inner + 9" outer). Also sold as: AP5986690, PS11729065, EAP11729065. LG cross-reference: MEE62385201.
Fits Samsung NE58, NE59, and NE63 series ranges, and LG LRE6385ST. Check the full compatibility list on the product page if you're not sure.
Step 1 — Cut the power
Reach behind the range and unplug it from the wall. If the plug is buried and hard to reach, go to your home's breaker panel and flip the breaker labeled "Range" or "Oven" or "Kitchen" to OFF.
Electric ranges use 240 volts — double the voltage of a regular outlet. Turning the burner knob to OFF does not disconnect power from the internal wiring. The terminals inside the range stay live until you pull the plug or kill the breaker.
Once power is off, wait five minutes. The glass cooktop holds heat longer than you might expect.
Step 2 — Slide the range out from the wall
Pull the range straight forward about 12 to 18 inches. You need room to get around to the back comfortably. Watch the power cord as you pull — don't let it snag or kink behind the range.
Step 3 — Remove the rear access panel
Look at the back of the range. There's a metal panel held in place by two Phillips screws — one near the top and one near the bottom. Unscrew both, lift the panel straight off, and set it aside.
Step 4 — Photograph the wiring before touching anything
Stop here and get your phone out. Photograph the wire connections on the element clearly from two angles before you disconnect anything. Pay attention to the posts marked 1b and 2b — these control the hot surface indicator light circuit.
If you reconnect those two wires swapped, the element will heat but the hot surface indicator light will be wrong — stuck on all the time or failing to activate. Take the photos. Zoom in until you can clearly read which wire goes where.
Step 5 — Disconnect the wiring
Use the needle-nose pliers to gently pull each wire connector off the element's terminal posts. Grip the connector itself — not the wire. Most connectors have a small locking tab; pressing that tab while pulling releases them cleanly. Work through the terminals one at a time.
Step 6 — Remove the old element
The element is held to a metal bracket by one or two Phillips screws. Remove the screws and set them somewhere safe — you'll reuse them. Then slide the element out. On most Samsung NE-series ranges it comes out by sliding it backward and angling slightly downward, away from the underside of the glass.
Step 7 — Check before installing the new part
With the old element out, spend 30 seconds looking around:
- Check the wire insulation for any melted or scorched spots — if you see this, address it before reassembling
- Clear any debris from the mounting area
- Confirm the new element is 10 inches — the DG47-00063A and DG47-00064A (12 inch) are not interchangeable
Note on ceramic cracks: Fine hairline cracks on the white ceramic insulator ring are completely normal for this part type and do not affect performance. Only return the part if you see large structural breaks or chunks missing.
Step 8 — Install the new element
Set the new DG47-00063A into the mounting position with the heating coil facing up toward the underside of the glass. Line up the screw holes and drive the screws back in — firm but not overtightened.
Step 9 — Reconnect the wiring
Open the photos from Step 4. Reconnect each wire to its original terminal post, matching your photos exactly. The connectors snap onto the posts — you'll feel a click when each one seats properly. Give each a gentle tug to confirm it won't pull free. Double-check the 1b and 2b positions specifically.
Step 10 — Reassemble and test
Set the rear panel back and drive the two screws in. Slide the range back against the wall. Restore power at the breaker or plug back in.
Turn the repaired burner to a medium setting. Within 60 seconds the glass should start to warm. Test both zones:
- Inner zone only: Turn the knob to its lowest setting — only the inner 6-inch ring should be active
- Both zones: Turn higher — both rings should heat together
- Hot surface light: Should activate when on, and turn off within a few minutes of switching off
Troubleshooting after the repair
Hot surface light stays on all the time — the 1b and 2b wires are swapped. Power off, go back in, swap those two connectors.
Only one zone heats — check that all terminal connectors are fully clicked onto their posts. Reseat and test again.
No heat at all — confirm power is fully restored. If power is on but nothing heats, the new part may be defective (rare) — contact us.
Element warms but doesn't get fully hot — one terminal is making partial contact. Power off and reseat all connectors firmly.
Frequently asked questions
How do I find my Samsung range's model number? Open the oven door and look at the frame around the oven cavity opening — there's usually a label on the left side or the bottom of the frame.
What if my element is 12 inches, not 10? You need the DG47-00064A. The two are not interchangeable. Look up your model number in Samsung's parts diagram to confirm which element your range uses.
Is it safe to do this myself? Yes, as long as you disconnect power first. Once unplugged, this repair involves no live wiring, no soldering, and no special electrical knowledge.
Will this void my Samsung warranty? If your range is out of warranty — which is almost always the case when elements fail — this is a non-issue.
How long will the new element last? Typically 8 to 12 years. Clean up boil-overs promptly, use flat-bottom cookware, and avoid running burners on high heat with nothing on them.
Compatible models include: NE58F9500SS, NE58K9430SS, NE58K9500SG, NE59J3420SS, NE59M4320SS, NE59M6850SS, NE63T8111SS, NE63T8311SS, NE63T8711SS, NE63T8711SG, and more — see the full list on the product page.
The single most common mistake in this repair: not photographing the 1b and 2b wire positions before unplugging. Swap those two and the hot surface indicator light will stay on permanently after the repair. Ten seconds with your phone saves you from pulling the range back out.
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