How to Replace 3387747 Dryer Heating Element on Whirlpool Maytag Kenmore — Step-by-Step

Your Whirlpool dryer's running, but your clothes come out cold and damp after an hour-long cycle. You've checked the breaker, cleaned the lint trap, and still nothing. Nine times out of ten, you're looking at a burned-out heating element — specifically part number 3387747 if you've got a Whirlpool, Maytag, Kenmore, KitchenAid, or Amana dryer.

One user with a 23-year-old Whirlpool put it best: "Found the part still available and in stock. Part was replaced in about 40 min since I took the opportunity to vacuum out all the built up lint. Actual heater element change was around 15 minutes." That's the reality — this repair takes less time than driving to a repair shop.

What You Need Before Starting

This is a straightforward repair, but you'll want to gather a few essentials:

• ¼-inch nut driver or socket wrench
• Philips screwdriver
• Flathead screwdriver (for panel clips)
• Multimeter (to test the old element)
• Shop vacuum (you'll thank me later)
• Work gloves

Repair Time: 30-45 minutes for most people
Difficulty: Easy to Moderate — No soldering, just screws and wire connectors

Safety First

Unplug your dryer completely. Don't just flip the breaker — physically disconnect it from the wall outlet. If you've got a gas dryer, shut off the gas valve too (this element works in electric models, but better safe than sorry). The heating element housing can have sharp edges, so keep those work gloves handy. And here's the thing nobody tells you: let the dryer sit unplugged for at least 10 minutes before you start. Capacitors can hold a charge.

Step 1: Access the Heating Element Housing

Pull your dryer away from the wall — you'll need about three feet of clearance. On most Whirlpool, Maytag, and Kenmore models (like the GEW9200LW1, WED8300SW2, or MEDC700VW0), the heating element lives in a metal canister on the lower right side of the rear panel. Remove the screws securing the lower access panel. Some models have the element behind the front panel, but the 3387747 typically indicates rear access. You'll see a rectangular metal housing with wires running to it — that's your target.

Step 2: Disconnect and Remove the Old Element

Take a photo of the wire connections with your phone before touching anything. You'll see two or three wire terminals on the element. Pull the wire connectors straight off — they're friction-fit, no screws. Now remove the screws holding the heating element housing to the dryer frame (usually two or three screws). Slide the entire housing out. Open the housing by removing the screws on the metal canister itself. The coiled heating element sits inside on ceramic insulators.

Step 3: Test the Old Element (Optional But Smart)

Set your multimeter to resistance (ohms). Touch one probe to each terminal on the heating element. You should get a reading between 5-50 ohms depending on your model. No reading or infinite resistance? It's dead. This confirms you're replacing the right part. While you've got the housing open, check the thermal fuse mounted on the housing — it should show continuity. No continuity means it's blown, and you'll need to replace that too before the new element will work.

Step 4: Install the New 3387747 Heating Element

Here's where you take that extra 25 minutes one user mentioned. Use your shop vacuum to clean out the entire heating element chamber and the vent duct while everything's apart. Lint buildup is what killed your old element in the first place. Mount the new 3387747 element in the housing exactly how the old one sat — the coils shouldn't touch the metal housing walls. Secure the housing cover, slide it back into position, and bolt it to the dryer frame. Reconnect the wire terminals, matching your phone photo. They should snap on firmly.

Step 5: Clear the Vents and Button Everything Up

Before you close it up, pull your dryer vent hose off and check for clogs. A restricted vent caused the overheating that burned out your element. Clean it thoroughly or you'll be doing this repair again in six months. Reattach the rear panel, push the dryer back into place, plug it in, and restore power. Run a test cycle on high heat for 10 minutes with no clothes. The dryer should heat up within 3-5 minutes.

Testing After Installation

Start a normal cycle and let it run for about 15 minutes. Open the door carefully — the drum should be warm to hot, not just room temperature. Check that the exhaust vent outside is blowing warm air. If you're still not getting heat, double-check those thermal fuse connections and make sure the vent isn't blocked. The element itself rarely fails if installed correctly — it's usually a safety component cutting power.

Frequently Asked Questions

Will this 3387747 element work in my Kenmore dryer?

Yes, if your model number matches the compatibility list. This element replaces WP3387747, AP6008281, W11344457, and PS11741416. It works across Whirlpool-manufactured brands including Kenmore Elite models, Maytag Centennial series, and KitchenAid dryers. Check your dryer's model tag inside the door frame to confirm.

Why did my heating element burn out?

Lint buildup is the number one killer. When your dryer vent gets clogged, hot air can't escape properly. The element overheats, the coils expand and contract excessively, and eventually a coil breaks. Age is the other factor — heating elements simply wear out after years of thermal cycling. If yours lasted 23 years like that user's Whirlpool, you got your money's worth.

Do I need to replace the thermal fuse when changing the heating element?

Test it first. The thermal fuse is a one-time safety device that blows if the dryer overheats. If it's blown (no continuity on a multimeter), you must replace it or the new element won't heat. Even if it tests good, consider replacing it anyway since it's cheap insurance — a blown thermal fuse in three months means another full disassembly. They're usually mounted right on the heating element housing.