How to Replace 240369701 Evaporator Fan Motor on Frigidaire Refrigerator — Step-by-Step

Your Frigidaire's freezer feels warm, and you hear a grinding noise every time the compressor kicks on. You've checked the door seals and cleaned the condenser coils, but temperatures keep climbing in both compartments. Nine times out of ten, that's your evaporator fan motor failing — it's supposed to circulate cold air from the freezer into the fresh food section, and when it quits, everything suffers.

The 240369701 evaporator fan motor fits dozens of Frigidaire, Kenmore, and Electrolux models including FRS3R5EMB4, FRS26H5ASB5, and FRS26R4AW0. It replaces older part numbers AP4700070, PS3419839, 5304445861, and 241537301. This repair takes about 30-45 minutes and doesn't require special tools — just a screwdriver and some patience.

What You Need Before Starting

• Phillips head screwdriver
• Flathead screwdriver (for prying clips)
• Towels (to catch dripping ice melt)
• Work gloves (metal edges are sharp)

Repair Time: 30-45 minutes

Difficulty: Moderate — You'll need to remove the freezer panel and handle some ice buildup.

Safety First

Unplug your refrigerator completely before starting. The evaporator fan runs on 120V and connects directly to the control board — you don't want to be reaching behind the freezer panel with live power running. Also, the evaporator coils behind that panel get extremely cold. If there's heavy frost buildup, let it melt for 20 minutes before you start removing screws, or you'll be fighting ice chunks the whole way through.

Step 1: Empty the Freezer and Remove Shelving

Pull everything out of the freezer compartment — food, ice bins, wire shelves, all of it. You need clear access to the back wall panel. Most Frigidaire models have a removable plastic cover secured by 4-6 Phillips screws along the edges. Some models hide screws under plastic caps that pop off with a flathead screwdriver. Check the top corners first.

Step 2: Remove the Evaporator Cover Panel

Once you've located all the screws, remove them and set them aside. The panel might stick because of ice or frost seal — gently pull from the bottom edge first, then work your way up. Don't yank it hard or you'll crack the plastic tabs. Behind this panel, you'll see the evaporator coils (looks like a radiator) and the fan motor mounted in a bracket, usually on the left side.

Step 3: Disconnect the Old Fan Motor

The fan motor has a wire harness connector — usually white or black plastic — that plugs into the housing. Press the locking tab and pull straight out. Don't tug on the wires themselves. Next, remove the mounting screws or clips holding the fan bracket to the evaporator housing. Some models use metal clips that slide off, others have two small screws. The entire fan assembly (motor, blade, and bracket) should lift out as one piece.

Step 4: Install the New 240369701 Motor

Position the new motor assembly into the same bracket location. Make sure the fan blade spins freely and doesn't rub against the housing — if it does, you've got it rotated wrong. Secure it with the mounting screws or clips, then plug in the wire harness until you hear the click. As one customer put it: "The Evap. motor you sent me was the exact part I needed, simple easy instructions. Great fit." That's what you want — a clean, snug installation with no forcing required.

Step 5: Reassemble and Test

Reattach the evaporator cover panel with all screws. Make sure it's seated properly against the freezer back wall — any gaps will cause warm air intrusion. Plug the refrigerator back in and listen. You should hear the fan start running within a few seconds, along with a rush of air movement. Set your freezer to the normal temperature setting and wait 2-3 hours. Check both compartments — the freezer should drop to 0°F and the fridge to around 37°F.

Testing After Installation

Let the unit run for 4-6 hours before restocking with food. Open the freezer door and listen for the fan — it should stop when the door opens (door switch safety feature) and restart when you close it. Feel for airflow from the vents in the back wall. If you're getting cold air circulation and temperatures stabilize within 24 hours, you're done. If the fan doesn't run at all, double-check that wire harness connection — sometimes it feels plugged in but isn't fully seated.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why is my fridge warm but the freezer cold after replacing the fan?

Check the air damper control between compartments — it might be stuck closed or frozen. The evaporator fan pushes cold air from the freezer into the fridge section through that damper. If it's blocked by ice or a broken damper door, you'll get uneven cooling even with a new fan motor running perfectly.

Should the evaporator fan run all the time?

No. It cycles on and off with the compressor. When the compressor runs to cool the evaporator coils, the fan runs to circulate that cold air. When the compressor shuts off (temperature reached), the fan stops too. If your fan runs continuously and never stops, you've got a control board issue, not a fan motor problem.

How do I know if my evaporator fan motor is bad before I buy a replacement?

Open the freezer door and press the door switch (usually on the right side). If you don't hear the fan running, that's your first clue. Or if the fan makes grinding, squealing, or clicking noises, the motor bearings are shot. Another test: feel for airflow from the back vents when the compressor is running. No airflow plus warm temperatures in both compartments almost always means dead fan motor.