How to Replace 22003483 Washer Drive Belt on Maytag Top-Load Washers — Step-by-Step

Your Maytag washer starts the cycle, fills with water, but the drum barely moves. You hear the motor running, maybe catch a faint burning rubber smell. The culprit? That 52-inch drive belt connecting your motor to the transmission has stretched, cracked, or snapped completely. On models like the MAV6200AWW and MAV5057AWW, this belt takes serious punishment — every load means thousands of rotations under tension.

The good news: replacing the 22003483 drive belt is one of the most straightforward washer repairs. You don't need special tools, and you'll have your machine spinning again in under an hour.

What You Need Before Starting

• Replacement 22003483 drive belt (52-inch)
• Putty knife or flat-head screwdriver
• Socket wrench set (typically 1/4" or 5/16" socket)
• Work gloves (belt edges can be sharp)
• Flashlight or work light

Estimated Time: 30-45 minutes
Difficulty: EASY

Safety First

Unplug your washer completely before starting this repair. Even though you're working with mechanical components, the motor and lid switch remain energized when plugged in. If your washer has a gas water heater model or connects to a water softener line, shut off those connections too. Wear gloves — old belts can have sharp frayed edges that'll slice your fingers if you're not careful.

Step 1: Access the Cabinet

Maytag top-loaders use spring clips to hold the cabinet in place. Slide your putty knife between the top panel and cabinet about 2-3 inches from each front corner. Push in firmly and you'll feel the clip release with a pop. Do both sides, then tilt the top panel back — it hinges at the rear. You'll now see the entire drive system: motor at the bottom, transmission in the middle, and whatever's left of your belt wrapped around both.

Step 2: Remove the Old Belt

Look at the motor pulley (the smaller wheel) and transmission pulley (the larger one). If your belt hasn't snapped completely, it's probably sitting loosely around them. Simply lift it off both pulleys. Check the pulleys themselves while you're here — if they're caked with rubber residue or lint, wipe them clean with a rag. That buildup causes the new belt to slip and wear prematurely.

Step 3: Route the New 22003483 Belt

Start by looping the new belt around the motor pulley first (the small one at the bottom). Make sure it sits in the groove — not riding up on the edges. Now stretch the belt up and around the transmission pulley. This takes a bit of force because the belt needs proper tension. Don't use tools to pry it on; that can damage the belt before you even start. Use your body weight: pull the belt toward the transmission pulley with one hand while rotating the pulley with the other.

Step 4: Check Belt Alignment and Tension

Once the belt's on both pulleys, manually rotate the transmission pulley by hand. The belt should track smoothly in the center of both grooves without riding up the sides or slipping off. You want about 1/2 inch of deflection when you press the belt midway between pulleys — not guitar-string tight, but no excessive slack either. If the belt seems loose, double-check you've got the correct 22003483 replacement (some online sellers ship 51-inch belts that look identical but are too short).

Step 5: Reassemble and Test

Lower the top panel back down. Push firmly on both front corners until you hear the clips snap into place. Plug the washer back in and run a small test load on the spin cycle. Listen for smooth, consistent operation — no squealing, no burning smell. The drum should spin up to full speed within 10-15 seconds. If you hear squealing, the belt might need to seat itself after a few cycles, or your pulleys needed more cleaning.

Testing After Installation

Run a complete wash cycle with a few towels to verify everything's working. Pay attention during the agitation phase — the drum should move back and forth forcefully. During the spin cycle, it should reach full speed without hesitation. If the washer still spins slowly or won't agitate, you might have a separate issue with the motor coupling or transmission. But if the belt was your problem (and it usually is when you see slow spinning plus that burning smell), you're back in business.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I know if I need a new belt or if it's a motor problem?

If your motor runs but the drum doesn't move, it's almost always the belt. You can usually confirm this by opening the cabinet and looking — a broken belt will be obvious, hanging loose or missing entirely. A stretched belt looks glazed and shiny instead of having that grippy rubber texture. Motor failures are much less common and typically mean the motor won't run at all, not even a hum.

Will this belt work on Whirlpool and Amana washers too?

Yes — the 22003483 is a direct replacement for WP22003483 and fits multiple brands including Whirlpool, Amana, and Jenn-Air top-load washers that use the same drive system. Check your model number against the compatibility list, but if your old belt measures 52 inches and has the same profile, you're good to go. These brands shared the same internal components across dozens of models from the late 90s through the 2010s.

The new belt squeals during the first few loads — is that normal?

Some squealing during the first 2-3 cycles is normal as the belt seats itself into the pulley grooves and breaks in. If it continues beyond that, you've got either a pulley alignment issue or residue on the pulleys. Pull the top back off and clean both pulleys thoroughly with rubbing alcohol. Make sure the belt's tracking dead-center in both grooves, not riding up on one edge.