How to Replace 137292700 Drum Drive Belt on Frigidaire Dryer — Step-by-Step

Your Frigidaire dryer's humming but the drum won't spin — or worse, it's spinning but making a grinding noise that sounds like a cat fight in your laundry room. Nine times out of ten, you're dealing with a worn or broken drive belt. One homeowner put it perfectly: "Watched couple youtube videos after dryer kept ripping holes on clothes." That grinding noise from a slipping belt will absolutely shred your clothes before the belt finally snaps completely.

The good news? Replacing the 137292700 multi-rib drum drive belt is one of the most straightforward dryer repairs you can tackle. You'll spend more time getting the cabinet apart than actually installing the new belt. This belt fits dozens of Frigidaire, Electrolux, Gibson, and Kenmore models including the CFLE1011MW0, FFLE2022MW0, and FFLE3900UW0. Let's get your dryer spinning again.

What You Need Before Starting

Grab these tools before you start — you don't want to be halfway through with the drum sitting on your laundry room floor when you realize you're missing something:

• Nutdriver set (1/4" is most common)
• Phillips and flathead screwdrivers
• Needle-nose pliers
• Socket set (optional but helpful for tight spaces)
• Work gloves (those drum edges are sharp)
• Shop vacuum (you'll thank me when you see the lint)

Repair Time: 30-60 minutes depending on your dryer model

Difficulty: Easy — Perfect first-time repair

Safety First

Unplug the dryer completely from the wall outlet. If you have a gas dryer, turn off the gas supply valve too — it's usually a red or yellow handle behind the dryer. Give yourself room to work by pulling the dryer at least three feet away from the wall. The drum weighs 20-30 pounds, so clear a space where you can safely lift it out without tweaking your back.

Step 1: Remove the Dryer Top and Front Panel

Pop the dryer top by inserting a putty knife between the top and front panel about 3 inches from each corner. You'll feel the clips release. Lift the top and prop it against the wall. Now remove the screws holding the front panel — they're usually along the top edge inside the cabinet and down the sides. Disconnect the door switch wires (take a photo first so you remember where they go). The front panel will lift off once you've got all the screws out.

Step 2: Lift Out the Drum Assembly

Here's where you'll see how bad your old belt really is. Release the tension on the idler pulley — push it toward the motor to create slack in the belt. Slip the old belt off the motor pulley and idler, then carefully lift the drum straight up and out of the cabinet. It's heavier than it looks, and those sharp edges will get you if you're not careful. Set it on a clean towel or cardboard on your floor.

Step 3: Route the New Belt Around the Drum

This is critical — the multi-rib side of the belt goes against the drum, not the smooth side. Wrap the new 137292700 belt around the drum about 4-5 inches up from the bottom edge. The ribs should be facing inward, touching the drum surface. One user described their process: "Open up dryer case remove drum installed new belt put case back together" — they made it sound simple because it really is once you know the trick.

Step 4: Reinstall the Drum and Thread the Belt

Lower the drum back into the cabinet, making sure the rear bearing sits properly in its socket. Reach underneath and pull the belt down. Thread it around the motor pulley first (clockwise when looking at the pulley), then stretch it over the idler pulley. The spring-loaded idler creates tension automatically — you just need to get the belt seated in the grooves. Use your pliers to pull the idler toward you if you need extra slack.

Step 5: Reassemble and Test

Spin the drum by hand a few times. It should rotate smoothly with slight resistance from the new belt. If it binds or feels too loose, check that the belt's seated properly in all the pulley grooves. Reconnect the door switch wires, reattach the front panel with all screws, and lower the top until it clicks. Plug the dryer back in, turn on the gas if applicable, and run a no-heat cycle for five minutes to break in the new belt.

Testing After Installation

Run an empty cycle on air fluff or no heat for 10 minutes. Listen for any squeaking — a brand new belt might squeak for the first few cycles until it seats fully. That's normal. What's not normal is grinding, thumping, or the drum not spinning at all. If the drum spins but you hear squeaking that doesn't go away after a few loads, you might also need to replace the idler pulley or rear drum bearing. As one tech noted in a Q&A: "Check the screws on the bearing to make sure they are not loose, check the retainer, bracket, belt, pulley and spring for any visible damage."

Frequently Asked Questions

Which way do the ribs on the belt face?

The ribbed side always faces inward toward the drum surface. The smooth side faces outward toward you when you're looking at the motor and pulleys. Installing it backwards will cause slipping and squealing.

My dryer was making noise before the belt broke — should I replace other parts too?

Probably. If your old belt was squeaking before it failed, check the idler pulley and rear drum bearing for wear. A squeaky pulley will eat through your new belt in months instead of years. While you've got the drum out, spin the idler pulley by hand — if it wobbles or doesn't spin freely, replace it.

How long should a dryer belt last?

Typically 8-12 years with normal use. But if you run your dryer constantly or overload it regularly, you might only get 5-6 years. The 137292700 is a quality OEM replacement that'll give you another decade of reliable service if you don't abuse it.