GE Oven Won't Broil or Heat — 5 Causes & How to Fix WB44X173

You're trying to broil steaks for dinner, turn the oven to broil, wait five minutes — and nothing. The element stays cold, your meat stays raw, and you're scrambling for backup plans. If your GE, Hotpoint, or Kenmore oven refuses to heat when broiling (or barely heats when baking), the broil element is usually the culprit. But not always.

This happens on dozens of GE models — JKP36GxD1, JBP24GS1WH, JKP78GxK1, and more — because broil elements endure extreme temperatures repeatedly. They crack, burn out, or develop breaks in the heating coil. Let's walk through exactly how to diagnose what's wrong.

Quick Symptom Check

Before you order parts, verify you're seeing these symptoms:

• Element stays completely cold when set to broil — no glow, no warmth after 5 minutes
• Weak broiling performance — element glows but food takes forever to brown
• Uneven baking heat — top of oven too cool, bottom cooks fine
• Visible damage to element — blisters, breaks, or separated coils on the element itself
• Oven won't start at all — sometimes a shorted element trips safety circuits

If you're nodding along to two or more of these, keep reading.

Cause #1: Burned-Out Broil Element (WB44X173) — 70% Probability

The broil element itself fails more often than anything else. It's a big metal loop that glows red-hot when working correctly — mounted to the top of your oven cavity. Over time, the metal coil inside develops weak spots from thermal stress. Eventually it breaks, and electricity can't flow through anymore.

How to diagnose: Set your oven to broil and wait three minutes. Open the door and look at the element. A working element glows bright orange-red across its entire surface. If part of it glows but a section stays dark, or if nothing glows at all, the element's dead.

You can also test with a multimeter. Unplug the oven, remove the element (two screws at the back of the oven cavity), and test for continuity across the terminals. You should see 15–50 ohms. Infinite resistance means it's open and needs replacement.

The fix: Replace it with WB44X173 (also sold as AP2031021, WB44X185, WB44X174). This element fits JKP and JBP series GE ovens, plus Hotpoint and Kenmore models using the same platform. Important: the replacement does NOT include a mounting bracket — you'll reuse your existing bracket. The screw-on terminals are spaced 1-1/4 inches apart with a depth of 2-3/4 inches, so confirm your old element matches before ordering.

Cost: $25–$45 for the part, 20 minutes to install.

Cause #2: Loose or Corroded Wire Connections — 15% Probability

The broil element connects to your oven's wiring with screw-on terminals at the back of the oven cavity. If those screws loosen over time (from heating and cooling cycles), or if corrosion builds up on the metal contacts, electricity can't flow properly. You'll see weak heating or intermittent failures.

How to diagnose: Unplug the oven. Remove the broil element by unscrewing it from the back wall. Inspect the wire terminals — look for green corrosion, black burn marks, or loose screws. Wiggle the wires gently. If they move easily or the metal looks discolored, that's your problem.

The fix: Clean the terminals with fine sandpaper or a wire brush. Reconnect the element and tighten the screws firmly (but don't overtighten and strip them). If the wires themselves are damaged or the insulation is melted, you'll need to replace the wire harness — that's a job for a tech unless you're comfortable with electrical work.

Cost: Free if it's just loose, $50–$100 if you need new wiring.

Cause #3: Faulty Oven Control Board — 8% Probability

Your oven's electronic control board sends voltage to the broil element when you select broil mode. If the relay on that board fails, the element won't get power even though it's perfectly fine. This is less common, but it happens — especially on older GE models from the early 2000s.

How to diagnose: If your element tests good with a multimeter (continuity present), but still won't heat when installed, suspect the control board. You can also check if other functions work — if the bake element works fine but broil doesn't, the board's broil relay may be dead.

The fix: Control board replacement. This requires unplugging the oven, removing the back panel, disconnecting multiple wire harnesses, and installing a new board. It's doable for a confident DIYer, but most people call a pro for this one.

Cost: $150–$250 for the board, plus $100–$150 labor if you hire out.

Cause #4: Tripped Thermal Fuse or Safety Cutoff — 5% Probability

Some GE ovens have a thermal fuse that cuts power to the broil element if the oven overheats. If something causes your oven to run too hot (like a failed temperature sensor), the fuse blows to prevent fire. Once blown, it's one-time-use — you have to replace it.

How to diagnose: You'll need to access the back of the oven and locate the thermal fuse (usually near the broil element or on the control board). Test it with a multimeter for continuity. No continuity = blown fuse.

The fix: Replace the thermal fuse AND figure out why it blew. If you just replace the fuse without fixing the underlying cause (bad temp sensor, stuck relay), it'll blow again immediately.

Cost: $15–$30 for the fuse, but診斷 the root cause can add expense.

Cause #5: Bad Broil Element Selector Switch (Older Models) — 2% Probability

On older mechanical-control GE ovens (pre-2000s), a physical selector switch routes power to the broil element. If that switch wears out, the element won't get voltage. This is rare on modern electronic-control ovens, but if you've got an ancient tank that still uses dials, it's possible.

How to diagnose: Test voltage at the broil element terminals while the oven is set to broil. If there's no voltage but the element tests good, trace back to the selector switch and test it.

The fix: Replace the selector switch. Parts availability can be tough for very old models.

Cost: $40–$80 if you can find the part.

When to Call a Pro

Replacing the broil element itself is easy — two screws, plug it in, done. If you're comfortable testing with a multimeter, you can also check for continuity and voltage. But if you've replaced the element and it still doesn't work, or if you're seeing error codes on the display, call a tech. Control board diagnosis requires experience, and miswiring 240V circuits is dangerous.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use my oven without a working broil element?

Yes, the bake element (bottom of the oven) will still work for regular baking. You just won't be able to broil, and your oven may heat unevenly since the top element provides supplemental heat during baking cycles on some models.

Why does my new broil element only glow in the middle?

If part of the element doesn't glow, you got a defective part or the wrong element. The WB44X173 should glow evenly across the entire loop when heated. Return it and get a replacement — don't use a partially glowing element, as it indicates internal damage.

How long should a broil element last?

Typically 10–15 years with normal use. If you broil frequently (several times a week), expect 7–10 years. Heavy self-clean cycles also stress the element since they use both broil and bake elements at maximum heat.