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Dishwasher starts a cycle but no water enters the tub, or fills far too slowly — valve solenoid has failed or inlet screen is blocked.
Puddle under or around the dishwasher traced to the valve body — internal seals have degraded allowing water to escape the housing.
Tub continues to fill beyond normal level and water overflows — valve is stuck in the open position and cannot close on command.
Machine pauses and does not progress to the wash or rinse phase because the control board is not receiving a water-present signal from a valve that fails to open.
Each cycle uses a noticeably different amount of water, leading to poor wash results — worn internal diaphragm or partial mineral blockage causing inconsistent flow.
💡 Pro Tip: How to Diagnose a Failed Water Inlet Valve
Your part is likely the culprit if you notice any of the following:
⚠️ Dishwasher fails to fill with water or fills too slowly at the start of a cycle
⚠️ Standing water on the floor under the unit — active leak from the valve body area
⚠️ Dishwasher overfills and water spills onto the floor (valve stuck open)
⚠️ Cycle does not advance properly — machine stops mid-cycle waiting for water
🔍 Quick test: Disconnect power, shut off water supply, remove the valve and check the inlet screen for sediment blockage first — a clogged screen mimics a bad valve. If the screen is clear and the solenoid coil reads out-of-range resistance (typically should be 200–500 Ω on a multimeter), the valve has failed and needs replacement.
📦 What's in the Box
✅ 1× Water Inlet Valve Assembly (WD15X10009-compatible) with mounting screws
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Disclaimer: Compatibility information, part numbers, and model fitment data on this page are sourced from manufacturer databases and third-party references. While we strive for accuracy, please verify your appliance model number before ordering. Heima is not responsible for errors or omissions in compatibility listings.
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