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Dishwasher starts its cycle but no water enters the tub — the valve solenoid has failed open-circuit and must be replaced.
Tub fills much slower than normal, leaving dishes with food residue and detergent residue due to insufficient water volume.
Dishwasher keeps filling and will not stop — internal diaphragm is stuck open, allowing uncontrolled water flow into the tub.
Audible buzzing or humming at cycle start but water does not enter — solenoid is energized but the valve is mechanically seized or clogged.
Visible drip or puddle under the dishwasher at the supply hose connection point caused by a cracked valve body or failed hose clamp seal.
💡 Pro Tip: How to Confirm Your Water Inlet Valve Has Failed
Your part is likely the culprit if you notice any of the following:
⚠️ Dishwasher starts but no water enters the tub — cycle runs dry
⚠️ Tub fills very slowly, leaving dishes poorly rinsed or with food residue
⚠️ Dishwasher fills continuously and overflows even when the door is open
⚠️ Humming or buzzing sound at the start of the fill cycle with little or no water flow
🔍 Tech Note: Never attempt to clean or unclog the water inlet valve — internal debris damages the rubber diaphragm and seat, making the valve more prone to failure. Always replace the full assembly. Before ordering, confirm your model number on the door jamb label and cross-reference against the compatibility list below.
📦 What's in the Box
✅ 1× Water Inlet Valve Body (solenoid-operated, 120V AC)
✅ 1× Inlet Hose
✅ 1× Hose Clamp
We typically respond within 1 business day. Include your appliance model number for the fastest answer.
Disclaimer: Compatibility information, part numbers, and model fitment data on this page are sourced from manufacturer databases and third-party references. While we strive for accuracy, please verify your appliance model number before ordering. Heima is not responsible for errors or omissions in compatibility listings.
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