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The ice maker solenoid circuit of the dual valve fails to open, cutting off water supply to the ice maker. Replacing this valve restores full ice production.
A burned-out or stuck dispenser solenoid prevents water from flowing through the door. This valve replacement fixes both solenoid circuits simultaneously.
A cracked valve body or failed solenoid seal allows water to drip continuously from the rear of the refrigerator. A new valve stops the leak at its source.
Mineral and scale buildup inside the valve restricts flow, resulting in slow dispensing or small, hollow ice cubes. Replacement fully restores proper water pressure and flow rate.
A stuck-open solenoid allows water to overfill the ice maker and overflow into the fresh food section. Replacing the valve eliminates this continuous overflow condition.
💡 Pro Tip: Is Your Water Inlet Valve the Problem?
Your part is likely the culprit if you notice any of the following:
⚠️ Ice maker has completely stopped producing ice
⚠️ No water or very slow water flow from the door dispenser
⚠️ Water drips or leaks constantly from the valve area at the back of the fridge
⚠️ Water pooling at the bottom of the fresh food compartment
🔍 Diagnostic Tip: Set your multimeter to AC voltage mode. During the ice maker harvest cycle you should read 120 VAC at the solenoid terminals. If you have voltage but the valve does not open, the solenoid plunger is stuck or burned out — replace the valve. Checking resistance alone is not reliable; a coil can read correct ohms yet still have a seized plunger.
📦 What's in the Box
✅ 1× Dual Water Inlet Valve Assembly (110/120V, 20W + 35W solenoids, 5/16" inlet, 1/4" + 5/16" outlets)
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Disclaimer: Compatibility information, part numbers, and model fitment data on this page are sourced from manufacturer databases and third-party references. While we strive for accuracy, please verify your appliance model number before ordering. Heima is not responsible for errors or omissions in compatibility listings.
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