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The valve solenoid coil has failed open-circuit, preventing any water from entering the tub when a cycle starts.
Mineral deposits or internal valve failure restrict flow, causing the tub to fill too slowly or incompletely, triggering error codes or mid-cycle stops.
A faulty valve diaphragm fails to seal completely, allowing water to seep into the drum even when the machine is powered off or between cycles.
Cracked valve body or deteriorated internal seals cause water to drip or spray from the inlet connections at the back of the machine.
One solenoid coil (hot or cold) fails while the other works, resulting in only hot or only cold water entering the drum regardless of the selected temperature setting.
💡 Pro Tip: Is Your Water Inlet Valve the Problem?
Your part is likely the culprit if you notice any of the following:
⚠️ Washer fills very slowly or not at all despite good water pressure
⚠️ Washer continues filling with water even after the cycle ends or machine is off
⚠️ Visible dripping or leaking from the rear valve connection area
⚠️ Washer stops mid-cycle due to insufficient water entering the tub
🔍 Quick test: Turn off water supply, disconnect inlet hoses, and inspect the valve screens for calcium/mineral buildup. If screens are clear but fill is still slow, test solenoid coils with a multimeter — an open circuit (infinite resistance) confirms valve failure. Remember: never attempt to clean or disassemble the valve internals — always replace the entire unit.
📦 What's in the Box
✅ 1× Washer Water Inlet Valve (120V, 50/60Hz, dual-coil, 90° outlet, 1/2" NPT inlet ports)
We typically respond within 1 business day. Include your appliance model number for the fastest answer.
Disclaimer: Compatibility information, part numbers, and model fitment data on this page are sourced from manufacturer databases and third-party references. While we strive for accuracy, please verify your appliance model number before ordering. Heima is not responsible for errors or omissions in compatibility listings.
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