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The primary water inlet valve supplies water from the household line to the filter and ice maker. When the solenoid fails or the valve body cracks, the ice maker receives no water and stops producing ice entirely.
A seized or failed inlet valve blocks water flow upstream of the filter and dual outlet valve, resulting in zero output at the door dispenser even when the dispenser paddle or button is activated.
Plastic valve bodies can crack at compression fittings or seams due to age and water hammer, causing slow drips or sudden flooding behind and beneath the refrigerator.
Mineral scale and sediment buildup inside the valve orifice reduces flow rate to both the ice maker and dispenser, resulting in undersized ice cubes or a weak water stream.
💡 Pro Tip: How to Diagnose a Failing Refrigerator Water Inlet Valve
Your part is likely the culprit if you notice any of the following:
⚠️ Ice maker has completely stopped producing ice despite good water pressure and a clean filter
⚠️ Water dispenser delivers no water or only a slow trickle
⚠️ Visible water pooling or dripping underneath or behind the refrigerator
⚠️ Valve body cracked, corroded, or shows mineral deposits at fittings
🔍 Tech Tip: Test the solenoid coil with a multimeter — a healthy coil reads 500–1,500 ohms resistance. A reading of 0 or OL (open loop) confirms the valve has failed and must be replaced. Also verify household water pressure is at least 40 PSI; low pressure can mimic a failed valve without actually causing one.
📦 What's in the Box
✅ 1× Single Primary Water Inlet Valve (20W / 120V / 60Hz, 5/16" inlet × 1/4" outlet)
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Disclaimer: Compatibility information, part numbers, and model fitment data on this page are sourced from manufacturer databases and third-party references. While we strive for accuracy, please verify your appliance model number before ordering. Heima is not responsible for errors or omissions in compatibility listings.
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