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The water inlet valve solenoid has failed or its inlet screen is blocked by mineral deposits, preventing any water from entering the tub at the start of a cycle.
A partially clogged inlet screen or weak solenoid restricts flow, causing the dishwasher to underfill — dishes come out still dirty or the cycle aborts early.
A stuck-open or leaking solenoid valve allows water to flow continuously past the fill cycle, leading to overflow and water on the floor.
A degraded solenoid coil produces audible electrical noise when energized but fails to open the valve fully, resulting in noisy operation and poor fill performance.
Cracked valve body or deteriorated internal O-rings cause water to drip from behind the toe-kick access panel, especially visible after a fill or rinse cycle.
💡 Pro Tip: How to Tell If Your Water Inlet Valve Has Failed
Your part is likely the culprit if you notice any of the following:
⚠️ Dishwasher fills with no water or fills far too slowly
⚠️ Water runs continuously and the dishwasher overfills
⚠️ Loud humming or buzzing noise during the fill cycle
⚠️ Water leaking from beneath the toe-kick panel
Use a multimeter to check solenoid coil resistance across the valve terminals. An open circuit (OL) or very high resistance reading confirms a failed solenoid. Also inspect the inlet screen for hard-water mineral deposits — a clogged screen mimics valve failure.
📦 What's in the Box
✅ 1× Dishwasher Water Inlet Valve Assembly (120V / 60Hz, 3/8" inlet × 1/4" outlet)
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Disclaimer: Compatibility information, part numbers, and model fitment data on this page are sourced from manufacturer databases and third-party references. While we strive for accuracy, please verify your appliance model number before ordering. Heima is not responsible for errors or omissions in compatibility listings.
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