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Excessive frost or solid ice accumulation on the evaporator coils behind the rear panel, blocking airflow and causing the refrigerator to stop cooling properly.
Fresh food or freezer section fails to maintain proper temperature because the defrost cycle is not completing, leaving ice blockage on the evaporator.
The defrost heater continues running past the end of the defrost cycle because the bi-metal thermostat has failed open and can no longer cut the circuit at the high-temperature threshold.
The refrigerator does not enter or complete its automatic defrost cycle, causing progressive frost buildup that eventually halts cold air circulation entirely.
💡 Pro Tip: How to Confirm a Faulty Defrost Thermostat
Your part is likely the culprit if you notice any of the following:
⚠️ Heavy frost or ice buildup on the evaporator coils behind the rear panel
⚠️ Refrigerator or freezer not cooling properly despite compressor running
⚠️ Defrost heater won't shut off after the defrost cycle completes
⚠️ Thermostat shows 0 Ohms (no continuity) or stays closed at all temperatures with a multimeter
🔬 Diagnostic Tip: Place the thermostat in ice water — it should show continuity (closed circuit) when cold. If it fails to open at room temperature during a heat test, replace it. Always test the defrost heater and main control board as well if symptoms persist after replacement.
📦 What's in the Box
✅ 1× DA47-00243K Bimetal Defrost Thermostat (120V AC / 10A, 13.5" wire, clip connector)
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Disclaimer: Compatibility information, part numbers, and model fitment data on this page are sourced from manufacturer databases and third-party references. While we strive for accuracy, please verify your appliance model number before ordering. Heima is not responsible for errors or omissions in compatibility listings.
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