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A faulty or stuck-closed solenoid prevents water from flowing through the valve to the dispenser, resulting in no output when the paddle is pressed.
A cracked valve body or deteriorated inlet fitting causes water to drip behind or under the refrigerator near the rear water connection point.
Partial blockage or a weak solenoid allows only limited water into the ice mold, producing undersized cubes due to insufficient water fill volume.
A valve solenoid that sticks open continues to allow water flow after the ice maker has signaled it to stop, causing the ice maker to overflow.
A seeping or weeping valve that never fully closes allows residual water to drip and freeze inside the fill tube connecting the valve to the ice mold.
💡 Pro Tip: Is Your Water Inlet Valve Failing?
Your part is likely the culprit if you notice any of the following:
⚠️ Ice maker has stopped producing ice entirely
⚠️ Water dispenser delivers no water or a weak, slow trickle
⚠️ Ice cubes are undersized or hollow due to insufficient water fill
⚠️ Water dripping or pooling behind the refrigerator near the valve
🔎 Diagnostic Tip: Disconnect power and remove the valve. Set a digital multimeter to the Ohms (Ω) setting and probe the solenoid terminals. A healthy valve reads 200–500 Ω. An open circuit (infinite resistance) or a reading well outside this range confirms the valve has failed and must be replaced. Also verify household water pressure is at least 20 PSI before condemning the valve.
📦 What's in the Box
✅ 1× Water Inlet Valve with Mounting Bracket (120V / 35W, 1/4" compression inlet × 1/4" push-connect outlet)
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Disclaimer: Compatibility information, part numbers, and model fitment data on this page are sourced from manufacturer databases and third-party references. While we strive for accuracy, please verify your appliance model number before ordering. Heima is not responsible for errors or omissions in compatibility listings.
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