How to Extend Your Washer Lid Switch Life — Maintenance Guide for 8318084
Always unplug washer before inspecting or cleaning the lid switch. Never bypass the switch — it's a critical safety interlock that prevents spin cycle injuries.

Here's something most people don't realize: the average washer lid switch should last 8-10 years, but most fail around year 4-5. Why? Because nobody thinks about maintaining them until the washer suddenly won't spin and they're staring at a tub full of soaking wet clothes.
The 8318084 lid switch assembly is one of those parts that gets used every single wash cycle — dozens of times a week. It's a safety interlock that tells your Whirlpool, Maytag, Kenmore, or Roper washer that the lid is closed and it's safe to spin. When it fails, you'll know immediately: the washer fills, agitates, drains... but won't spin. Your clothes come out wringing wet.
How Long Should It Last?
Under normal conditions, a lid switch assembly should give you 8-10 years of service. But that's with light to moderate use — maybe 5-6 loads per week in a household of two or three people.
Reality looks different. If you're doing 10+ loads weekly, have hard water deposits building up, or tend to slam the lid shut (we've all done it when we're in a hurry), you're shortening that lifespan significantly. I've seen switches fail in as little as 3 years in high-use households.
What affects longevity:
- Usage frequency — More loads mean more cycles on the switch mechanism
- Lid closing force — Slamming creates mechanical stress on the actuator
- Moisture exposure — Steam and humidity from wash cycles corrode the electrical contacts
- Detergent residue — Soap buildup can gum up the mechanical parts
- Hard water — Mineral deposits interfere with proper contact
With proper care, you can push that lifespan to 10-12 years, even in high-use situations.
Signs It's Wearing Out
The lid switch doesn't usually give you much warning before it fails completely. But there are subtle signs if you know what to look for.
Washer Won't Spin (Most Common Failure)
This is the big one. Your washer completes the wash and drain cycles perfectly, but when it's time to spin, nothing happens. The clothes sit there soaking wet. Sometimes you'll hear the motor trying to engage, then stopping. Other times — complete silence.
Why it happens: The switch contacts have worn out or corroded to the point where they can't complete the circuit. The washer's control board thinks the lid is open (even though it's not) and refuses to spin for safety reasons.
If you're seeing this on models like the Kenmore 11016102500, Whirlpool 1CWTW5200VQ0, or Amana ATW4475VQ0, the 8318084 switch is almost always the culprit.
Intermittent Spinning Problems
Before complete failure, you might notice the washer spins sometimes but not others. You close the lid, start the cycle, and... nothing. Open and close the lid a few times, and suddenly it works.
This is the switch contacts making inconsistent connection. The mechanical parts are wearing but haven't failed completely yet. This is your warning sign — you've got maybe 2-4 weeks before it stops working entirely.
Physical Damage to the Switch Assembly
Check the actual switch mechanism (with the washer unplugged). If you see cracks in the plastic housing, corrosion on the metal contacts, or the actuator arm feels loose or wobbly, you're looking at a switch that's on borrowed time.
When to Replace vs Maintain
Let's be honest: you can't really "repair" a failed lid switch. Once the contacts are worn or the internal mechanism breaks, replacement is your only option. The 8318084 assembly is a sealed unit.
But here's the decision framework:
Maintain if:
- The switch is working normally with no intermittent issues
- Your washer is less than 5 years old
- There's no visible corrosion or damage
- You want to prevent future failures
Replace if:
- Washer won't spin at all (main symptom of switch failure)
- Spinning works sometimes but not consistently
- You see physical damage to the switch housing
- The actuator arm is loose or broken
- Switch is more than 8 years old
The good news? At $37.99, the 8318084 is one of the more affordable washer repairs you'll face. Compare that to a $150 service call or a $600+ new washer.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I bypass the lid switch to keep using my washer?
Technically yes, but don't. The lid switch is a critical safety feature that prevents the washer from spinning with the lid open. Bypassing it means the drum could spin at 1,000+ RPM with your hand inside. I've seen the injuries. Just replace the switch — it's a 15-minute job and costs less than an ER copay.
Why does closing the lid harder sometimes make it work?
The switch actuator arm needs to make solid contact with the lid's striker tab to trigger the switch. When contacts are worn, extra force sometimes pushes things into alignment enough to complete the circuit temporarily. It's not a fix — it's a sign the switch is failing and you're forcing worn parts to connect.
Will the wrong lid switch damage my washer?
Using an incorrect switch won't damage the washer, but it won't work properly. The 8318084 is specifically designed for top-load washers from Whirlpool, Maytag, Kenmore, Roper, and Amana models. It replaces original part numbers WP8318084, AP6012742, and PS11745957. Using the correct replacement ensures the switch actuates at the right position and provides proper electrical specs for your washer's control board.
Element showing wear?
8318084 · Replace before it fully fails