How to Replace WR50X10068 Defrost Bi-Metal Thermostat on GE Refrigerators — Step-by-Step

Your GE refrigerator's freezer has a half-inch of frost coating everything, and the ice cream is soft. Meanwhile, the fridge section feels warmer than it should. That's the classic sign of a failed defrost bi-metal thermostat — the WR50X10068 stopped signaling the defrost heater to turn on, so frost keeps building up on the evaporator coils until airflow gets blocked.

This thermostat sits on the evaporator coils in your freezer section and acts as a temperature safety switch during defrost cycles. When it fails, you'll notice frost accumulation, warm temperatures in both compartments, or a freezer that runs constantly trying to compensate. The good news? It's a straightforward replacement that most homeowners can tackle in under an hour.

What You Need Before Starting

Gather these tools before you start:

• 1/4-inch nut driver or socket wrench
• Flathead screwdriver
• Phillips screwdriver
• Needle-nose pliers
• Towels for cleanup
• Flashlight or headlamp

Repair Time: 45-60 minutes
Difficulty: MODERATE

This repair requires removing the freezer interior panels to access the evaporator compartment. You'll be working in a tight space, but the actual thermostat swap takes just minutes once you're there.

Safety First

Unplug your refrigerator completely before starting — this isn't optional. You'll be working near electrical connections and potentially sharp metal edges inside the evaporator compartment. Wear gloves to protect your hands from cold surfaces and sharp coil fins. If your model has an ice maker, turn off the water supply valve behind the fridge to prevent leaks when you're moving things around.

Step 1: Empty the Freezer and Remove Interior Panels

Pull everything out of your freezer and store it in a cooler. Remove all shelves, bins, and the ice bucket if you have one. Look for screws along the back wall panel — most GE models like the GSS25SGMDBS or HSS25GFTAWW have 4-6 screws holding the rear panel in place. Some models hide screws under plastic caps that pop off with a flathead screwdriver. Remove these screws and gently pull the panel forward at the bottom, then lift up to unhook the top tabs.

Step 2: Access the Evaporator Compartment

Behind that panel, you'll see another metal or plastic cover protecting the evaporator coils — this is the evaporator cover. It's typically held by 4-8 screws around the perimeter. Remove these screws and carefully pull the cover away. You might encounter some frost or ice buildup here, which is normal if your thermostat has been failing. The defrost thermostat is a small cylindrical component with two wire leads, clamped directly to the evaporator coils near the bottom or middle section.

Step 3: Disconnect and Remove the Old Thermostat

Take a photo of the wire connections before you disconnect anything — you'll thank yourself later. The WR50X10068 has two wire terminals, usually with push-on connectors. Gently pull these connectors straight off the terminals using needle-nose pliers if they're tight. The thermostat itself is held to the evaporator coil by a metal clip or bracket. On most GE models, you'll squeeze or pry this clip to release the thermostat from the coil tubing. Note exactly where it's positioned on the coils so you can mount the new one in the same spot.

Step 4: Install the New WR50X10068 Thermostat

Position your new thermostat in the exact same location on the evaporator coil where the old one sat. The sensor bulb needs good contact with the coil tubing to read temperature accurately. Secure it with the metal clip, making sure it's snug but not overtightened — you don't want to crimp the coil. Push the wire connectors onto the terminals firmly until you hear or feel them click into place. Give each wire a gentle tug to confirm they're secure. Double-check your photo to make sure the wires are on the correct terminals.

Step 5: Reassemble and Test

Reinstall the evaporator cover, making sure all screw holes line up properly and no wires are pinched. Replace the interior freezer panel, securing all screws and replacing any plastic caps. Put the shelves and bins back in place. Plug the refrigerator back in and listen — you should hear the compressor start within a few minutes. Set your freezer to the normal temperature setting.

Within 6-8 hours, the freezer should reach proper temperature (0°F or below). The defrost cycle typically runs every 8-10 hours, so give it at least 24 hours to confirm the frost buildup issue is resolved.

Testing After Installation

Check these things after your repair:

• Freezer temperature reaches 0°F within 8 hours
• No unusual clicking or buzzing sounds from the evaporator area
• Frost stops accumulating on the back wall
• Both freezer and fresh food sections maintain proper temperature
• Ice maker resumes normal operation (if applicable)

If you still see frost buildup after 48 hours, you might have a defrost heater or defrost timer issue in addition to the thermostat. But in most cases, replacing the WR50X10068 solves the problem completely.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I know if my defrost thermostat is bad or if it's the defrost heater?

The easiest test is with a multimeter. Disconnect the thermostat and check continuity across the terminals when it's at room temperature — it should show continuity (closed circuit). Put it in your freezer for 30 minutes, then test again — it should still show continuity. If it shows no continuity at either temperature, it's failed. The defrost heater, on the other hand, should show 15-30 ohms of resistance when tested. If the heater shows infinite resistance, that's your problem instead.

Will this thermostat work on Hotpoint models like the HSS25GFTABB?

Yes, the WR50X10068 is the correct replacement for Hotpoint side-by-sides including the HSS25GFTABB, HSS25GFTAWW, and HSS25GFPAWW. It also replaces older part numbers WR50X10015 and WR50X10028, so if your original thermostat has either of those numbers stamped on it, this is the right part. GE and Hotpoint use the same refrigeration components across most of their side-by-side lineup.

Why does my refrigerator run constantly even after replacing the thermostat?

If the compressor runs non-stop after replacing the WR50X10068, you've likely got a separate issue. Check that the evaporator fan is spinning freely and the condenser coils under or behind the fridge are clean. A constantly running compressor can also indicate low refrigerant, a failing compressor itself, or dirty condenser coils blocking heat dissipation. The defrost thermostat only controls the defrost cycle, not the main cooling cycle, so a non-stop compressor points to a cooling system problem rather than a defrost issue.