How to Replace W10195114 Dishwasher Pump to Sump Hose on Whirlpool Dishwashers — Step-by-Step

Water pooling at the bottom of your Whirlpool dishwasher after a cycle? You start a load, come back an hour later, and there's standing water mixed with bits of food debris that won't drain. Nine times out of ten, that's your pump to sump hose cracked or split — especially on models like the WDF510PAYB0 or WDT750SAHZ0 where this hose sees constant pressure cycles.

The W10195114 hose assembly connects your dishwasher's drain pump to the sump area where water collects before being pumped out. When it fails, you'll see leaks during the drain cycle or water that simply won't evacuate. The good news? This is one of the more straightforward dishwasher repairs you can tackle yourself.

What You Need Before Starting

Gather these tools before you pull the dishwasher out:

• 1/4-inch nut driver or socket set
• Needle-nose pliers
• Towels (you'll have residual water to deal with)
• Flashlight or work light
• Small bucket or shallow pan

Estimated repair time: 30-45 minutes

Difficulty level: MODERATE — Requires accessing the base of the dishwasher

Safety First

Disconnect power at the breaker — not just the wall switch. Dishwashers are hardwired or plugged in behind the unit, and you'll be working near electrical connections and water. Also shut off the water supply valve under your sink. There's usually still 1-2 cups of water trapped in the system, so keep those towels handy.

Step 1: Access the Dishwasher Base

Remove the lower kickplate at the bottom front of your dishwasher — it's typically held by two screws or spring clips. Once that's off, you'll see the dishwasher's underbelly. This is where the pump, motor, and hose assembly live. If your dishwasher is built-in, you may need to remove the two mounting screws at the top (underneath the countertop edge) and carefully pull the unit forward a few inches to give yourself working room.

Step 2: Locate and Drain Residual Water

Look for the sump area — it's the black plastic housing at the base where water collects. You'll see the old hose connected here. Tip the dishwasher slightly backward (just a few degrees) to let gravity help, then use towels or a shallow pan to catch water as you disconnect things. On models like the WDF310PAAB0 and WDF530PSYM0, there's often a quarter-cup of water still sitting in the sump chamber even after a drain cycle.

Step 3: Remove the Old Hose Assembly

The W10195114 hose connects at two points: the drain pump outlet and the sump inlet. You'll see spring clamps or wire clamps holding it in place. Use needle-nose pliers to squeeze and slide these clamps back along the hose — they don't come off completely, just reposition them. Once the clamps are moved, twist and pull the hose off both connections. The old hose might be brittle or have visible cracks, especially near the bends where stress concentrates.

Step 4: Install the New W10195114 Hose

Route the new hose exactly like the old one came out — there's usually a specific path it follows to avoid the heating element and motor. Push the hose firmly onto the pump outlet first, then onto the sump connection. You should feel it seat completely over the ridged fittings. Slide the clamps back into position about 1/2 inch from the end of each connection and make sure they're tight. Give each end a firm tug — if it moves more than a millimeter, reposition the clamp.

Step 5: Reassemble and Test

Slide the dishwasher back into place (if you pulled it out), reconnect the mounting screws, and replace the kickplate. Turn the water supply back on and restore power. Run a short rinse cycle while you watch underneath for any leaks at the connection points. Check again during the drain phase — that's when pressure is highest. If everything stays dry, you're good to go.

Testing After Installation

Run a full wash cycle, but stick around for the first drain. Listen for normal pump operation — you should hear a smooth whirring sound, not grinding or struggling. Check the sump area one more time after the cycle completes. No water pooling at the bottom means you've got a solid seal. If you see any moisture, shut everything down and reseat the hose connections with fresh clamps.

Frequently Asked Questions

Will this hose fit my Kenmore dishwasher if it's using a Whirlpool pump system?

Yes, absolutely. Many Kenmore dishwashers from the 2010s forward use Whirlpool components. If your model number starts with 665 and you've confirmed your old hose looks identical to the W10195114, you're safe to install this replacement. Cross-check with models like the ADB1400PYB0 if you've got an Amana-branded unit — same platform, same hose.

How do I know if my hose is actually bad or if it's a different drainage problem?

Look for visible cracks, especially where the hose bends near connections. Run your fingers along it — if you feel soft spots or see any moisture weeping through the rubber, it's done. If the hose looks fine but you've got drainage issues, check your drain pump itself or the air gap under your sink. A bad hose usually leaves water in the tub; a clogged pump makes grinding noises.

Can I use a generic hose instead of the W10195114 OEM part?

Not recommended. Generic hoses might fit initially but often use thinner rubber that fails within months, especially with the hot water and detergent exposure dishwashers see. The W10195114 is molded to specific angles for models like the WDT710PAYM2 and 7WDF530PAYM3 — generic versions don't always route correctly and can kink, which creates back pressure on your pump and shortens its life.