How to Replace DC62-30314L Water Inlet Valve on Samsung Dishwasher — Step-by-Step

Your Samsung dishwasher won't fill with water. You hear the usual startup hum, but no water comes in. The dishes just sit there dry while the machine goes through the motions. Nine times out of ten, you're looking at a failed water inlet valve — specifically the DC62-30314L, which controls water flow into Samsung models like the DW80K7050UG, DW80K5050US, and DW80R9950UG series.

This valve sits at the bottom of your dishwasher where the water supply line connects. It's an electrically controlled solenoid valve that opens when your dishwasher needs water and closes when it's got enough. When it fails, you'll either get no water at all or sometimes a slow trickle that never fills the tub properly.

What You Need Before Starting

This repair takes about 30-45 minutes if you've got basic DIY skills. Here's what you'll need:

• Phillips head screwdriver
• Flat head screwdriver
• Quarter-inch nut driver or socket wrench
• Needle-nose pliers
• Towels (you'll have some water spillage)
• Small bucket or container
• Work gloves

Difficulty: Moderate — You'll need to access the bottom of the dishwasher and work with both plumbing and electrical connections.

Time Required: 30-45 minutes

Safety First

Before you touch anything, flip the breaker that powers your dishwasher. Not just the control panel off — kill the power at the breaker box. Samsung dishwashers run on 120V, and you'll be disconnecting wire harnesses near water. Also shut off the water supply valve under your sink. It's usually a quarter-turn valve on the line feeding the dishwasher. Turn it clockwise until it stops. Have those towels ready because even with the water off, there's still water trapped in the valve and supply line.

Step 1: Remove the Lower Access Panel

Open your dishwasher door and remove the bottom dish rack completely — it just lifts out. Now get down on the floor and look at the kickplate at the very bottom of the dishwasher (that's the panel below the door). On most Samsung models, it's held by two screws at the top corners and sometimes clips at the bottom. Remove those screws, then pull the bottom edge toward you and lift up to unhook it. Set it aside.

Step 2: Locate and Disconnect the Old Valve

With the kickplate off, you'll see the water inlet valve on the lower left side of the machine. It's a black or gray plastic component about the size of your fist with the water supply line coming in from the left and two white or clear hoses going into the dishwasher tub. First, disconnect the wire harness by squeezing the locking tab and pulling straight out. Then use your pliers to loosen the hose clamps on those two outlet hoses — squeeze the clamp tabs together and slide them back about an inch. Pull the hoses off (water will drip, use your towels). Finally, disconnect the inlet water line using your wrench to loosen the compression fitting.

Step 3: Remove the Mounting Bracket

The inlet valve is held to the dishwasher frame by a metal mounting bracket. You'll see two screws holding this bracket — typically one at the top and one at the bottom. Remove both screws with your nut driver or socket. The whole valve assembly should now be free. Tilt it to drain any remaining water into your bucket, then pull it out completely.

Step 4: Install the New DC62-30314L Valve

Here's where order matters. Position your new valve in the same orientation as the old one — inlet port facing left where the supply line comes in, outlet ports pointing into the machine. Hold it in place and reinstall the mounting bracket screws. Tighten them snug but don't overtighten and crack the plastic valve body. Now reconnect the inlet water line to the threaded port — hand-tighten first, then give it another quarter turn with your wrench. Push the two outlet hoses onto the valve ports until they bottom out, then slide the hose clamps back into position about a half-inch from the ends. Finally, plug the wire harness back in until you hear it click.

Step 5: Test for Leaks

Leave the kickplate off for now. Turn your water supply back on slowly and watch for leaks around all three water connections. If you see drips, tighten that connection slightly. Once it's dry, turn the breaker back on and run a rinse cycle. Watch the valve during the first fill — you should hear it click open and see water flowing into the tub. Let it run for two minutes to verify everything's working, then cancel the cycle, reinstall the kickplate, and you're done.

Testing After Installation

Run a complete normal wash cycle with dirty dishes to make sure everything works under real conditions. Check that the dishwasher fills to the proper level — you should see water covering the filter assembly at the bottom. Listen for the fill cycle to stop automatically when it reaches the right level (the valve should click shut). Also verify that you're not getting any error codes on the display panel. If you see LE or OE codes after installation, there might be a wiring issue — double-check that wire harness connection.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I know if my inlet valve is bad or if it's a different problem?

If your dishwasher won't fill with water but you can hear it trying to start a cycle, and you've confirmed water pressure is good at the supply valve, it's almost always the inlet valve. You can test it by disconnecting the inlet line and putting it in a bucket — turn on the water supply and you should get strong flow. If the flow is good but your dishwasher still won't fill, the valve's solenoid isn't opening. That's a failed valve. Another test: listen closely when the cycle starts. A working valve makes a distinct click sound when it opens. No click usually means no valve action.

Will this valve work on my specific Samsung dishwasher model?

The DC62-30314L fits a wide range of Samsung dishwashers manufactured from about 2015 onward, including the DW80K, DW80J, DW80H, and DW80R series. Check your model number on the label inside the door edge — if it starts with those prefixes, you're good. This valve replaces part numbers AP5582579 and PS4209101, so if your parts lookup shows those numbers, the DC62-30314L is the correct replacement.

Can I clean the old valve instead of replacing it?

Technically you can try, but it rarely works long-term. Inlet valves fail because the internal rubber diaphragm hardens or the solenoid coil burns out — neither of those responds to cleaning. If you've got visible sediment buildup on the screen filter at the inlet port, you can remove and rinse it, but if the valve itself isn't opening and closing properly, replacement is your only real fix. These valves aren't designed to be rebuilt.