How to Replace 8318084 Washer Lid Switch Assembly on Whirlpool Maytag — Step-by-Step

Your Whirlpool washer fills with water just fine, agitates like normal, but when it's time to spin? Nothing. The drum sits there full of soaking wet clothes while you hear absolutely nothing happening. Nine times out of ten, that's your lid switch assembly failing — and it's one of the easiest washer repairs you can tackle yourself.

The lid switch is a simple safety mechanism that tells your washer the lid is closed so it's safe to spin. When this part fails, your washer thinks the lid's open even when it's shut tight, so it refuses to enter the spin cycle. This is especially common on Kenmore models like the 11016102500 and Whirlpool models like the 1CWTW5200VQ0.

What You Need Before Starting

Good news — this is about as straightforward as appliance repairs get. Here's what you'll need:

• Putty knife or flat-head screwdriver
• ¼" nut driver or socket wrench
• Needle-nose pliers (sometimes needed for wire connections)
• Towel (to catch any residual water)

Repair Time: 15-25 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Safety First

Always unplug your washer before starting any repair. The lid switch carries electrical current, and working on it while powered could give you a shock. If your washer's hardwired, flip the breaker. Also, have that towel ready — even in a "dry" washer, you'll sometimes find water trapped around the tub collar where the switch mounts.

Step 1: Access the Lid Switch Under the Top Panel

The lid switch sits just under the washer's top panel, attached to the tub opening. Start by sliding a putty knife between the top panel and the cabinet about 3 inches from each front corner. You'll feel spring clips — push them in while lifting the top. The panel hinges at the back, so prop it open against a wall or have someone hold it.

Step 2: Locate and Disconnect the Failed Switch

Look at the underside of the washer opening where the lid closes. You'll see a small rectangular assembly with wires connected — that's your lid switch. Take a photo of the wire connections with your phone before disconnecting anything. The wires typically have spade connectors that pull straight off, though some models use a plug connector you'll need to press and release.

Step 3: Remove the Mounting Screws

The switch is held in place by two or three ¼" screws. Remove these with your nut driver. On some models, there's a metal mounting bracket you'll need to remove first. The switch might be snug in its opening — gently wiggle it free if needed. Don't force it or you might crack the plastic tub collar.

Step 4: Install the New 8318084 Switch

Position your new switch exactly where the old one sat. Thread the screws back in and snug them down — firm but not gorilla-tight since you're threading into plastic. Reconnect the wires following your reference photo. The connections should snap firmly into place. Give each wire a gentle tug to confirm it's secure.

Step 5: Test the Switch Function

Before closing everything up, lower the top panel and plug the washer back in. Start a spin cycle and listen — you should hear the washer engage immediately. If it doesn't, open the lid mid-cycle. The washer should stop spinning within 2-3 seconds. That confirms your switch is working correctly and the washer recognizes lid position.

Testing After Installation

Run a complete wash cycle to verify everything works as it should. Pay attention during the transition from wash to spin — the washer should pause briefly, then ramp up to full spin speed. Open the lid during spin to confirm the safety shutoff works. If the drum keeps spinning with the lid open, you've got a wiring issue to address.

Frequently Asked Questions

Will this switch work on my Kenmore 110 series washer?

Yes, the 8318084 is a direct fit for most Kenmore 110 series washers including models 11016102500, 11016102501, 11016102502, and many others. Check the compatible models list on the product page to verify your specific model number.

My washer still won't spin after replacing the switch — what else could it be?

If you've confirmed the switch is properly connected and the washer still won't spin, check the drive belt and motor coupling. A broken belt or stripped coupler will cause identical symptoms but requires different parts. Also verify the switch actuator on the lid itself isn't broken — it needs to properly press the switch when closed.

Can I test the old switch to confirm it's actually bad?

Absolutely. Use a multimeter set to continuity. With the switch actuator pressed in (simulating a closed lid), you should get continuity between the two main terminals. Release the actuator and continuity should break. No continuity when pressed means the switch is dead and needs replacement.