How to Replace 691366 Dryer Idler Pulley Assembly on Whirlpool & Maytag Dryers — Step-by-Step

Your dryer starts making a screeching sound that gets louder every cycle. Or maybe it just won't start at all — the drum won't budge when you hit the button. Nine times out of ten, that's your idler pulley giving up. The 691366 idler pulley assembly is the tensioner that keeps your dryer belt tight against the motor pulley and drum. When it seizes up or the bearing wears out, you'll know it immediately.

This repair works across dozens of Whirlpool, Maytag, Kenmore, KitchenAid, and Roper models — including the WED4815EW1, WGD4850HW0, NED4655EW1, and MEDC465HW0. If you've got a squealing dryer or one that won't turn, replacing the idler pulley assembly usually fixes it in under an hour.

What You Need Before Starting

• 1/4-inch nut driver or socket set
• Flathead screwdriver
• Work gloves (those springs are under serious tension)
• Flashlight or headlamp
• Shop vacuum (for cleaning out lint while you're in there)

Repair Time: 45-60 minutes
Difficulty: Moderate

You'll need to remove the dryer's front panel and drum to access the idler pulley. It's not complicated, but there are several screws and the drum is heavier than you'd expect.

Safety First

Unplug the dryer completely before starting. If you have a gas dryer, also shut off the gas supply valve. The idler pulley spring is under significant tension — when you release it, it'll snap back hard. Keep your hands clear and wear gloves. That drum weighs 30-40 pounds, so have someone help you lift it out if possible.

Step 1: Remove the Lint Screen and Top Panel

Pull out the lint screen completely. You'll see two screws at the top of the lint chute — remove them with your 1/4-inch nut driver. Now lift the entire top panel up from the front and tilt it back against the wall. Some models have clips on the sides, so you might need to slide a putty knife along the edges to release them first.

Step 2: Disconnect the Door Switch and Remove Front Panel

Open the dryer door and look for screws around the door opening — typically two at the top corners and sometimes two more at the bottom. Remove all of them. Unplug the door switch wire connector (it's usually white, clipped to the front panel). Now lift the entire front panel up slightly and pull it forward. Set it aside carefully — don't scratch the paint.

Step 3: Release Belt Tension and Remove the Drum

Here's where that tension comes into play. Look at the bottom front of the dryer cavity — you'll see the idler pulley holding the belt tight. Push the idler pulley toward the motor to release tension, then slip the belt off the motor pulley. The tension will release completely. Now reach in and lift the drum straight up and out. It's heavy and awkward, so get a good grip. Watch for any loose screws or clips that might fall into the blower housing.

Step 4: Remove the Old Idler Pulley Assembly

The idler pulley is mounted on a bracket at the bottom right of the dryer cabinet. You'll see one bolt holding the entire assembly in place — it's usually a 5/16-inch hex head. Remove that bolt and the whole idler pulley assembly (pulley, arm, and spring) comes off as one piece. Check the mounting bracket for cracks while you're here. If the pulley seized up badly, sometimes the bracket gets damaged too.

Step 5: Install the New 691366 Idler Pulley

Position the new idler pulley assembly exactly where the old one came off. The spring end hooks into a slot on the motor mount bracket — make sure it's seated correctly. Install the mounting bolt and tighten it down. Spin the pulley by hand — it should rotate smoothly and quietly. That squealing noise you had? Gone.

Step 6: Reinstall the Drum and Belt

This is the tricky part. Loop the dryer belt around the drum with the ribbed side against the drum surface. Lower the drum back into the cabinet, reaching underneath to route the belt around the motor pulley and over the idler pulley. Pull the idler pulley toward you to create tension, then slip the belt onto the motor pulley. Let the idler spring pull everything tight. Rotate the drum by hand a few times — the belt should track smoothly without any wobble.

Step 7: Reassemble and Test

Reconnect the door switch wire. Position the front panel back on, making sure the bottom edge sits in its slots first, then push the top in until it clicks. Replace all the screws around the door opening. Lower the top panel back down, push it forward to engage the front clips, and replace the two lint chute screws. Plug the dryer back in. Run a test cycle — silence. That's what you want to hear.

Testing After Installation

Run the dryer empty on air fluff for five minutes. Listen for any squealing, grinding, or rattling. The drum should rotate smoothly in both directions (yes, it reverses during normal operation). Open the door mid-cycle — the drum should stop immediately. If everything checks out, you're done. That $19.99 part just saved you $300 in service calls.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I know if my idler pulley is bad or if it's the drum rollers?

Bad idler pulleys usually squeal or screech constantly while the dryer runs. Bad drum rollers make a rumbling or thumping noise that changes when you push on the drum front. If the dryer won't start at all and the drum is loose, that's definitely the idler pulley — the belt fell off because there's no tension. Open the dryer and spin the idler pulley by hand. If it's rough, notchy, or seized up, replace it.

Can I use this 691366 pulley in my Kenmore dryer?

Absolutely. Kenmore dryers made by Whirlpool use the exact same idler pulley assembly. The part crosses over to WP691366, AP6010582, W10612905, and PS11743765. If your Kenmore model number starts with 110 (like 11067132791 or 11072822100), it's a Whirlpool-made unit and this part will fit.

Do I need to replace the belt at the same time?

Not necessarily, but inspect it carefully while you're in there. Look for cracks, fraying edges, glazing (shiny spots), or missing chunks. If the belt caused the pulley to fail by slipping and creating friction, replace both. A new belt runs about $10-15 and you've already got everything apart. If the belt looks good and you caught the pulley early, you can reuse it.