How to Replace 4392067 Dryer Repair Kit on Whirlpool, Maytag & Kenmore — Step-by-Step

Your Whirlpool dryer started making that distinctive grinding noise three loads ago. Now it won't spin at all, and you've got a hamper full of damp towels. If you're hearing rattling or the drum won't turn on models like the WED5500XW0, WED7300XW0, or WED9400SW1, you're likely dealing with worn drum support rollers or idler pulleys — exactly what the 4392067 repair kit fixes.

This kit includes the drum support rollers, idler pulley assembly, and drive belt that commonly fail together. One user put it perfectly: "Parts fit perfectly. Save time and money by getting genuine parts." Let's walk through this repair so you can get your dryer running quietly again.

What You Need Before Starting

Tools required:

• 1/4-inch nut driver
• Long flat-blade screwdriver
• Short flat-blade screwdriver
• Phillips screwdriver

Time estimate: 45-60 minutes
Difficulty: Intermediate

You'll need to remove the dryer drum to access these components, which sounds intimidating but follows a logical sequence once you understand the layout.

Safety First

Critical: Disconnect the dryer from power completely. If it's hardwired, shut off the circuit breaker at your electrical panel. Gas dryers also need the gas supply shut off at the valve behind the unit. Test that the dryer won't start before touching anything internal. These repair kits involve the belt system under tension — you don't want the drum suddenly spinning while your hands are inside.

Step 1: Remove the Lint Screen and Top Panel

Pull out the lint screen completely. You'll see two Phillips screws at the bottom of the lint chute — remove them. Now lift the top panel from the front. It's hinged at the back, so tilt it up and lean it against the wall behind the dryer. On some Kenmore models, you may need to release spring clips with a putty knife inserted between the top and front panel.

Step 2: Disconnect and Remove the Front Panel

With the top up, locate the door switch wires connected near the top corners. Take a photo with your phone before disconnecting — you'll thank yourself during reassembly. Use your short flat-blade screwdriver to release the wire connectors. Now remove the 1/4-inch hex screws securing the front panel (typically two at each top corner). Lift the front panel up slightly and pull it forward to unhook the bottom tabs.

Step 3: Release the Belt Tension and Remove the Drum

Here's where it gets real. Reach underneath the drum from the front opening. You'll feel the belt looped around the drum and running to a spring-loaded idler pulley on your right. Push that idler pulley toward the motor to release tension, then slip the belt off the motor pulley. Now you can lift the drum straight out — it's heavier than it looks, so use both hands. As one installer noted: "I did get it after 3 attempts" when talking about the belt routing, so don't feel bad if this takes a couple tries.

Step 4: Replace the Drum Support Rollers

With the drum out, you'll see the support rollers at the rear of the cabinet — these are what failed and caused your noise or spinning issues. Use your 1/4-inch nut driver to remove the tri-wing screws holding each roller shaft. The old rollers will likely be flat-spotted, squeaky, or wobbly. Install the new rollers from your kit, making sure the shafts are fully seated and screws are tight. These need to spin freely — give them a test spin with your finger.

Step 5: Install the New Idler Pulley and Belt

Replace the idler pulley assembly if yours is squealing or has a wobbly bearing. Now for the belt routing — this is where most people struggle. Wrap the new belt around the drum with the ribbed side against the drum. Set the drum back into the cabinet, reaching underneath to loop the belt around the motor pulley first, then over the idler pulley. The idler pulley maintains tension automatically. Rotate the drum by hand several times to confirm the belt tracks properly in the center — if it walks to one side, your tension isn't balanced.

Step 6: Reassemble the Front Panel and Top

Reverse your disassembly steps. Hook the front panel bottom tabs first, swing it up, and secure the top screws. Reconnect the door switch wires exactly as shown in your photo. Lower the top panel and reinstall the lint chute screws. Before you push the dryer back into place, run one test cycle.

Testing After Installation

Restore power and run the dryer empty on air fluff for five minutes. Listen for any unusual noises — you should hear nothing but smooth, quiet operation. Then run a small load on low heat. The drum should spin consistently without hesitation. If you hear squeaking, one of the rollers may not be seated correctly. If the belt slips, double-check your routing around the idler pulley.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why replace all the components together instead of just the noisy roller?

The 4392067 kit includes rollers, idler pulley, and belt because they wear together. If one roller failed, the others are close behind. The idler pulley spring weakens over time, and the belt stretches. Replacing everything now prevents another teardown in six months. As one tech put it: "A+ seller, parts fit as expected, dryer is up and working great again."

Will this kit work on my Kenmore 110 series dryer?

This kit fits Whirlpool-manufactured Kenmore models, which includes most 110 series dryers. Check your model number against the compatibility list — if you see models like WED5500XW0, WED7500GW0, or WED8000DW3 listed, and your Kenmore has a similar drum support design, you're good. When in doubt, pull your existing roller and compare dimensions.

The belt keeps slipping off after I reinstall everything — what am I doing wrong?

Belt routing is tricky. The belt must go: around the drum (ribs facing in), under and around the motor pulley, then up and over the idler pulley. The idler pulley should be on the right side with the spring creating tension. If the belt walks off-center when you spin the drum by hand, the idler pulley bracket may be bent or installed backward. Also verify the drum sits level on the support rollers — if it's tilted, the belt won't track properly.