How to Replace 3406107 Dryer Door Switch on Whirlpool Maytag — Step-by-Step
Always unplug the dryer completely before accessing internal components. Pull the actual plug or shut off the breaker — don't rely on the dryer's power button.

Your Whirlpool dryer won't start. You push the button — nothing. Or worse, the drum keeps spinning even with the door wide open, which is both weird and dangerous. Before you call a repair tech for $200, spend ten minutes checking the door switch. It's the little mechanism that tells your dryer "hey, the door's closed, it's safe to run." When it fails, your WED4800XQ0 or MEDC400VW0 acts like it doesn't know the door exists.
One customer put it perfectly: "The part fit perfectly, arrived in a couple of days and was in original packaging. Watched repair video and repair only took 10 minutes." That's the reality here — this isn't a complex job. You're removing a lint trap, popping the top, swapping two screws, and you're done.
What You Need Before Starting
This repair takes less time than waiting on hold with a service center. Here's what you'll need:
- Phillips and flathead screwdrivers
- 1/4" nutdriver
- Pliers
- Wrench set (occasionally needed depending on model)
- Helper to hold the top up (makes life easier)
Time Required: Less than 15 minutes
Difficulty: Easy — one DIYer said "Husband did it, but I could have done it."
Safety First
Unplug your dryer completely before touching anything internal. Don't just turn off the switch — actually pull the plug or flip the breaker. The door switch connects directly to the control system, and you don't want live voltage anywhere near your screwdriver. Also, avoid yanking on any wires you see. They're designed to disconnect gently when you pull the connector housing, not the wire itself.
Step 1: Remove the Lint Trap and Access Screws
Pull out your lint trap screen completely. Look inside the lint trap housing — you'll see two screws holding the duct assembly to the dryer top. Remove these with your screwdriver. These screws are what secure the front edge of the top panel, so don't lose them.
Step 2: Release the Top Panel
With those screws out, grab the front corners of the dryer top and pull forward firmly. You're releasing two spring clips hidden under the front edge. You'll feel them pop loose. Now lift the front of the top panel up and back — this is where a helper comes in handy, or you can prop it against the wall. The top will hinge from the back, giving you full access to the door switch area.
Step 3: Locate and Remove the Failed Switch
Open your dryer door. Look at the door frame area on the dryer cabinet — you'll see the door switch mounted with two screws, right where the door latch makes contact. Remove these two screws. The switch will come loose, still attached by its wire harness. Unplug the connector by squeezing any release tabs and pulling straight off. Don't twist or yank the wires themselves.
Step 4: Install the New 3406107 Switch
Take your new switch and plug it into the wire harness — you'll hear or feel it click into place. Position the switch exactly where the old one sat and reinstall those two screws. Make sure it's seated flush against the mounting surface. The switch actuator (the little plunger) should align with where the door latch will hit it.
Step 5: Reassemble and Test
Lower the dryer top back down, making sure it seats properly into those front clips. Reinstall the two screws in the lint trap housing. Slide your lint trap screen back in. Now plug the dryer back in and run a simple test: start a cycle with the door closed (the drum should spin), then open the door mid-cycle. The drum must stop immediately. If it keeps running with the door open, recheck your switch installation — something isn't making proper contact.
Testing After Installation
Beyond the basic "door open = drum stops" test, check that your dryer starts normally when you press the button with the door closed. Test the door light too — on models with one, the switch often controls that circuit. If you're working on a MEDC300XW0 or LER4634JQ0, make sure the touchpad responds properly, since a faulty door switch can sometimes cause "touchpad does not respond" symptoms.
Frequently Asked Questions
Will this switch work on my Kenmore or KitchenAid dryer?
Yes, if your model number matches the compatibility list. This switch replaces WP3406107, AP6008561, 3405100, and 3406109, which were used across Whirlpool, Maytag, Kenmore, and KitchenAid dryers for years. Check your model number against the list — models like 1CWED5200VQ0, MGDX700XL1, and dozens of others use this exact part.
My dryer won't start but the light comes on — is it definitely the door switch?
Probably, but not guaranteed. A working light means the switch is completing one circuit, but it has multiple contacts inside. One can fail while another works. The "won't start" symptom combined with "light working" points strongly to a partially failed switch. For $26.99 and ten minutes, it's worth swapping to find out.
Do I really need a helper to hold the top panel?
Not absolutely necessary, but it makes the job easier. You can prop the top against a wall or use a stick to hold it up. Just don't let it slam back down — those hinges will bend if you drop the panel. One person can definitely do this job solo if needed.
Have a helper hold the dryer top open, or prop it against the wall. Those spring clips at the front pop loose easier if you pull forward firmly before lifting.
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