How to Replace 303395 Dryer High Limit Thermostat on Maytag, Whirlpool & Crosley — Step-by-Step

Your Maytag MDG9806AWW dryer tumbles fine, but the clothes come out cold and damp every single time. You've checked the breaker, confirmed the gas is on, but nothing changes. That's the telltale sign of a failed high limit thermostat — specifically part 303395 — and replacing it yourself takes about 20 minutes with basic tools.

What You Need Before Starting

This repair works for Maytag, Whirlpool, Crosley, Admiral, and Jenn-Air dryers using the 303395 thermostat. Confirmed compatible models include MDG9316AXW, LDG7500ABW, CDG4205AWW, NDG6800AWW, and LSG2700W among dozens of others.

• 1/4" nut driver or socket
• Flathead screwdriver
• Needle-nose pliers (optional)
• Work gloves
• Flashlight or headlamp

Repair Time: 15-25 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Safety First

Unplug your dryer completely before you touch anything. If you have a gas dryer, you don't need to shut off the gas line for this repair — the thermostat mounts on the blower housing, nowhere near the burner assembly. Still, keep a fire extinguisher nearby and work in good light. The high limit thermostat is a safety device that prevents overheating, so don't skip replacing it if it's failed.

Step 1: Access the Blower Housing

Pull the dryer away from the wall to access the back panel. Remove the screws securing the rear access panel using your 1/4" nut driver — typically six to eight screws around the perimeter. Set the panel aside. You'll immediately see the blower wheel and ductwork. The high limit thermostat is a small disc-shaped component mounted directly on the blower housing with two wire terminals sticking out.

Step 2: Disconnect the Wires

Take a photo with your phone before disconnecting anything. The 303395 thermostat has two push-on wire terminals. Grip each wire connector — not the wire itself — and pull straight off. They might be tight. Use needle-nose pliers if needed, but don't yank on the wires or you'll damage the connections. If the terminals look corroded or burnt, that's confirmation your thermostat failed due to overheating.

Step 3: Remove the Old Thermostat

The thermostat is held by a single screw through its mounting bracket. Remove that screw with your 1/4" nut driver and lift the old thermostat off. Check the area where it mounted — if you see lint buildup or scorching, clean it thoroughly before installing the new part. Lint restricting airflow is often why these thermostats fail in the first place.

Step 4: Install the New 303395 Thermostat

Position your new 303395 thermostat exactly where the old one sat, with the metal disc making solid contact with the blower housing. The thermal sensing happens through direct contact, so any gap will cause false readings. Thread the mounting screw back in and tighten it snug — not gorilla-tight, just firm. Push the wire terminals back onto the new thermostat posts until they click. Double-check your photo to confirm correct wire placement.

Step 5: Reassemble and Test

Replace the rear access panel and secure all screws. Push the dryer back into position, reconnect the vent hose, and plug it back in. Run a test cycle with damp towels. Within five minutes, you should feel hot air coming from the exhaust. Let the cycle complete — your clothes should come out properly dried and warm. If the dryer still won't heat, you might have a secondary issue with the thermal fuse or heating element, but the 303395 thermostat is the most common culprit.

Testing After Installation

Run the dryer empty for two minutes, then carefully feel the exhaust air. It should be noticeably warm. Let a full load run through a normal cycle and check that clothes dry completely in the expected time. If your dryer overheated before (shutting off mid-cycle), the new thermostat should prevent that. Also check that your vent ductwork isn't kinked or clogged — restricted airflow will just cause the new thermostat to fail prematurely.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why did my 303395 thermostat fail in the first place?

Usually it's restricted airflow from a clogged vent, lint buildup in the blower housing, or a blocked exhaust duct. The thermostat opens the circuit when temperatures exceed safe limits (usually around 280°F). If your dryer constantly overheats due to poor ventilation, the thermostat eventually stays open permanently, cutting power to the heating element. Clean your entire vent system when you replace this part.

Is the 303395 the same as WP303395 or AP6007529?

Yes, those are all the same part. 303395 is the base number, WP303395 is Whirlpool's prefix version, and AP6007529 is an updated cross-reference number. They're mechanically identical and install the same way on compatible Maytag, Whirlpool, Crosley, Admiral, and Jenn-Air dryer models.

Can I test if my thermostat is bad before ordering a replacement?

With a multimeter set to continuity or ohms, touch one probe to each terminal on the thermostat at room temperature. You should get a reading showing continuity (closed circuit). If it reads open circuit (infinite resistance) when cold, it's definitely failed. Most DIYers just replace it if the dryer won't heat — at $33.99, testing takes longer than swapping the part.