How to Replace 279838 Dryer Heating Element on Whirlpool Maytag Kenmore — Step-by-Step

Your dryer's running fine — the drum's spinning, the controls light up, but your clothes come out damp and cold after a full cycle. That's the classic sign of a failed heating element. On Whirlpool, Maytag, Kenmore, Amana, and Roper dryers, the 279838 heating element fails from material fatigue and prolonged high-temperature exposure. One user put it simply: "Replaced a couple of parts and back in business!" This repair takes about 30-60 minutes and requires basic tools you probably already have.

What You Need Before Starting

This is an easy-rated repair that most DIYers can handle. Gather these tools before you start:

• Nutdriver set (1/4" is most common)
• Phillips and flathead screwdrivers
• Socket set
• Work gloves (element housing gets sharp edges)
• Vacuum or shop vac for lint cleanup

Estimated repair time: 30-60 minutes

Difficulty: Easy

Safety First

Unplug the dryer completely before starting. If you have a gas dryer, turn off the gas supply valve as well. Even though you're working on the heating element (an electrical component), the dryer needs to be moved away from the wall, and you don't want any power running through it. Heating elements store no residual charge, but the capacitor in your dryer might — so keep hands away from any large cylindrical components near the motor.

Step 1: Access the Rear Panel

Pull the dryer away from the wall — you'll need at least 3 feet of clearance to work comfortably. Disconnect the exhaust vent hose from the back. On most Whirlpool-family dryers (WED4815EW1, WED5000DW2, MEDC215EW1, and similar models), the heating element sits behind the rear panel. Use your nutdriver or socket set to remove the screws around the perimeter of the back panel. There are typically 8-12 screws. Set the panel aside and prepare to see a lot of lint — that's normal.

Step 2: Locate and Remove the Old Heating Element

The heating element is housed in a metal box, usually on the right side (facing the back) of the dryer. It's a rectangular housing with wires connected to it. Before touching anything, use your vacuum to clean out the accumulated lint around the element housing — one user noted: "Moved away from wall, disconnected discharge hose, disconnected power, removed rear panel, cleaned the area of lint." This isn't just housekeeping; lint buildup causes premature element failure. Disconnect the two wire terminals from the element (they usually pull off by hand or need a gentle wiggle). Remove the screws holding the element housing in place — typically 2-4 screws depending on your model.

Step 3: Remove the Element from Its Housing

Pull the housing out carefully. You'll see the heating coil inside — it looks like a tightly wound spring. On a failed element, you might see a visible break in the coil or dark burn marks. Remove the screws on the housing itself (usually one on each end) to separate the coil from the metal casing. The 279838 element replaces AP3094254, W10724237, 3403585, and 8565582, so if your old part has any of those numbers, you're in the right place.

Step 4: Install the New 279838 Element

Take your new element and position it in the metal housing exactly how the old one sat. Secure it with the housing screws. Slide the entire assembly back into the dryer and fasten it with the mounting screws you removed earlier. Reconnect the two wire terminals — they only fit one way, but double-check that they're firmly seated. If the connections are loose, the element won't heat properly and you'll be right back where you started.

Step 5: Reassemble and Test

Replace the rear panel and tighten all screws. Reconnect the exhaust vent hose — make sure it's not kinked or crushed. Plug the dryer back in (or turn the gas back on). Run a test cycle with a few damp towels. Within 5 minutes, you should feel warm air coming from the exhaust. Open the door mid-cycle and feel the drum — it should be noticeably warm. If you're getting heat, you've successfully completed the repair.

Testing After Installation

Run a full cycle with a small load of damp towels. Check these points:

• Air temperature from the exhaust vent should be warm within 3-5 minutes
• No unusual smells (a slight "new element" smell is normal for the first cycle)
• Clothes should be completely dry at the end of a normal cycle
• Dryer shouldn't be excessively hot to the touch on the outside

If the dryer runs but still doesn't heat, check the thermal fuse (a common companion failure) or the high-limit thermostat. If the heat stays on after the drum stops, you may have a stuck relay or faulty timer — that's a different issue entirely.

Frequently Asked Questions

My dryer still runs but won't heat. Is it definitely the heating element?

Most likely, yes. When the drum spins and all controls work but there's no heat, the 279838 element has usually failed from material fatigue or prolonged high-temperature exposure. You can confirm this with a continuity test using a multimeter, but if you don't have one, replacing the element is the logical first step since it's the most common failure point.

Will this element fit my Kenmore dryer model?

The 279838 works across Whirlpool, Maytag, Kenmore, Amana, and Roper dryers. It fits models like WED4815EW1, WED5000DW2, LER5620KQ0, MEDC215EW1, and dozens more. Check your model number against the compatibility list or look at the part number on your existing element — if it's AP3094254, W10724237, 3403585, or 8565582, the 279838 is your replacement.

Can a heating element fail even if the dryer still runs?

Absolutely. The heating element and the motor are separate systems. The motor runs the drum and the blower, while the element provides heat. When the element breaks (usually a physical break in the coil wire), electricity can't flow through it, so no heat is generated. Everything else works perfectly fine — you just end up with a tumbler that blows room-temperature air.