How to Replace 134503600 Dryer Drum Belt on Frigidaire Electrolux Dryers — Step-by-Step

Your Frigidaire dryer's motor hums away like normal, but the drum just sits there. Clothes aren't tumbling, and you're staring at wet laundry wondering what broke. Nine times out of ten, it's the drum belt — and here's the good news: replacing the 134503600 belt is a straightforward repair that'll save you $150-200 in service calls.

This belt drives models from Frigidaire, Electrolux, Kenmore, and several other brands including the AEQ6000CES series, FDE336RES0, and FER311FS0. It breaks from normal wear and tear — fabric lint creates friction, the rubber hardens over years of heat cycles, and eventually it snaps or stretches beyond usability.

What You Need Before Starting

This repair takes about 45 minutes to an hour for most people. The difficulty level is moderate — you'll need to access the dryer's internal components, but no electrical work is required once you unplug the machine.

• 1/4" nut driver or socket set
• Flat-head screwdriver
• Putty knife (for releasing panel clips)
• Work gloves (belt routing can pinch fingers)
• Flashlight or headlamp

Difficulty: Moderate | Time: 45-60 minutes

Safety First

Unplug your dryer completely before starting. If it's a gas model, shut off the gas supply valve as well. Wait 10 minutes after unplugging to let capacitors discharge. You'll be reaching into tight spaces near sharp sheet metal edges, so work gloves aren't optional — they're necessary.

Step 1: Access the Drum Assembly

Most Frigidaire dryers have the belt accessible from the front panel. Use your putty knife to release the spring clips holding the top panel — slide it between the top and front panel about 3 inches from each corner, push in, and pop the clips. Lift the top and prop it against the wall. Remove the screws securing the front panel (usually two at the top corners inside the door opening, and two at the bottom). Disconnect the door switch wire harness, then lift the front panel off and set it aside.

Step 2: Remove the Drum

With the front panel off, you'll see the drum sitting in place. The broken or stretched belt is probably hanging loose or already fallen into the cabinet. Reach underneath the front of the drum and lift it up and out — it's heavy, around 20-25 pounds, so get a good grip. Set it on a towel nearby. Now's the perfect time to check the drum bearing and glides since you're already in there — consider replacing the bearing while the dryer is apart if it feels rough or makes noise when you spin it by hand.

Step 3: Route the New Belt Around the Drum

Take your new 134503600 belt and loop it around the drum with the grooved side against the drum surface. The flat side faces out. This matters — install it backwards and it'll slip constantly. Position the belt about one-third of the way back from the front edge of the drum. Now comes the tricky part: you're going to reinstall the drum into the cabinet while threading the belt around the motor pulley and idler pulley.

Step 4: Thread the Belt and Reseat the Drum

Lower the drum back into position, but don't let it drop all the way. Reach underneath with your right hand and find the motor pulley — it's the small pulley on the motor shaft. Loop the belt under it. Then locate the spring-loaded idler pulley (usually to the left of the motor) and route the belt over it. The idler maintains tension, so you'll need to push it toward the motor to get slack, loop the belt over, then let it spring back. Let the drum settle onto its rear bearing. Reach in and give the drum a spin — it should rotate smoothly with slight resistance.

Step 5: Reassemble and Test

Reconnect the door switch harness and position the front panel back onto the cabinet. Secure it with the screws you removed earlier. Lower the top panel and push down firmly until the clips snap into place. Plug the dryer back in, close the door, and start a cycle. The drum should begin rotating immediately. Listen for squealing or grinding — if you hear either, you may have the belt twisted or not fully seated on the pulleys.

Testing After Installation

Run an empty dryer cycle for 5 minutes. The drum should spin smoothly without excessive noise. Open the door mid-cycle to verify the drum stops immediately (tests the door switch you reconnected). Check for any burning smell in the first few minutes — a slight rubber smell is normal as the new belt seats itself, but strong burning means something's rubbing wrong. If everything checks out, load it up and get back to normal.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I know if my dryer belt is broken or just loose?

If the motor runs but the drum doesn't turn at all, the belt is either broken or completely off the pulleys. If the drum turns intermittently or squeals loudly, the belt is likely stretched or slipping. Open the dryer to visually confirm — a broken belt is obvious, while a stretched one looks intact but won't have proper tension on the pulleys.

Can I replace just the belt without replacing the idler pulley?

Yes, if the idler pulley bearing still spins freely and quietly. Spin it with your finger when you have the drum out — if it's rough, wobbly, or makes grinding sounds, replace it now while everything's apart. A worn idler pulley will kill your new belt within months.

Why does my dryer belt keep breaking every few months?

Frequent belt failure points to worn drum support rollers or a seized idler pulley creating excess friction. The drum bearing could also be dragging, making the motor work harder and wearing the belt prematurely. When you're replacing the belt this time, manually spin every pulley and roller — anything that doesn't spin freely needs replacement or you'll be back here doing this job again soon.