Whirlpool & Maytag Washer LID Error Code — What It Means & How to Fix
Lid lock failure or lid not detected as closed
The LID error appears when your Whirlpool or Maytag washer's control board cannot confirm the lid is properly locked. This prevents the spin cycle from starting as a safety measure. The error is triggered when the lid lock assembly fails to engage mechanically, the micro-switch inside the lock doesn't signal the control board, or the lid strike plate is misaligned. You'll typically hear rapid clicking from the lid area, and the washer won't start, drain, or spin.
Always unplug the washer before accessing the lid lock assembly. Never bypass the lid lock for normal operation—the drum spins at over 1000 RPM and can cause serious injury if accessed while running.
You load your laundry, close the lid, and press start. Nothing. Then you hear it—a rapid clicking sound from under the lid, followed by "LID" flashing on the display. Your Maytag MVW5430MW2 won't start, won't drain, and the control panel just blinks at you like it's stuck in some electronic argument with itself.
This isn't a software glitch. It's your washer telling you the lid lock assembly has failed.
What the LID Error Code Actually Means
The LID error (sometimes displayed as "Lid," "LOC," or "F5 E2" depending on your model) means your washer's control board can't confirm the lid is securely locked. On top-load Whirlpool and Maytag washers built after 2011, there's a safety interlock system: the lid must lock before the drum spins.
The W11670519 lid lock assembly does three things: it physically locks the lid, it tells the control board the lid is closed, and it confirms the lock has engaged. When any part of this system fails—the latch mechanism, the switch contacts, or the wiring harness—you get the LID error.
Models like the MVW5035MW1, MVW5430PBK0, and MVW5435PW1 all use this same lid lock design, and they all fail the same way: the plastic striker wears down, the micro-switch loses tension, or the solenoid coil burns out after a few thousand cycles.
Most Likely Causes (Ranked by Probability)
1. Worn Lid Lock Assembly (High Probability)
The plastic latch inside the W11670519 assembly wears down from repeated impact. The lid closes, but the switch doesn't register it. You'll hear clicking as the washer tries to engage the lock over and over. This is the failure mode in about 70% of LID error cases.
2. Misaligned Lid Strike Plate (Medium Probability)
If someone slammed the lid too hard or the washer has been moved recently, the strike plate on the lid itself can shift a few millimeters. The lock tries to engage but can't find the striker. The symptom looks identical—clicking and no start—but replacing the lock won't fix it.
3. Failed Control Board Communication (Low Probability)
The lock assembly connects to the main control board through a wiring harness. Corrosion on the connector pins or a pinched wire can break the signal. The lock works mechanically, but the control board never gets the "locked" confirmation.
4. Broken Lid Hinge or Warped Lid (Low Probability)
On washers over 8 years old, the lid itself can sag or the hinge can crack. The lid appears closed but sits 2-3mm too high for the lock to catch. You'll see a visible gap when looking at the lid from the side.
Step-by-Step Fix for the LID Error Code
Step 1: Test the Lid Alignment
Unplug the washer. Close the lid gently and look at the gap between the lid and the top panel from the front and both sides. It should be uniform—about 3-4mm all around. If one side sits higher, the strike plate is misaligned or the hinge is damaged.
Step 2: Manually Test the Lock
Open the lid. Look at the top of the washer drum opening—you'll see a rectangular black housing with a curved striker slot. This is the W11670519 assembly. Press the small plastic tab inside the slot with your finger. You should feel spring tension and hear a faint click. If it feels loose or doesn't click, the lock is dead.
Step 3: Access the Lock Assembly
Lift the washer's top panel. On most Maytag and Whirlpool top-loaders, there are two screws under the lid at the back corners (you'll need a T20 Torx bit). Remove those screws, then slide the top panel toward the back about an inch and lift up. The lid lock is mounted to the underside of this panel.
Step 4: Disconnect and Replace
Locate the wire harness connected to the back of the lock assembly—it's a white 6-pin connector. Press the tab and pull straight out. Remove the two Phillips screws holding the lock to the panel. The old W11670519 will come right out. Install the new assembly in reverse: screws first, then plug in the harness until you hear it click.
Step 5: Test the Repair
Before reassembling the top panel, plug the washer back in. Close the lid and press start. You should hear one solid click (not rapid clicking), and the washer should begin filling. If you still get the LID error, check the connector pins for corrosion—wipe them with a pencil eraser and reconnect.
When the Fix Doesn't Work
If you've replaced the W11670519 and the error persists, you're dealing with one of two issues:
Damaged Strike Plate: Flip the lid over and look at the underside where the curved metal striker is riveted. If it's bent or loose, you'll need to replace the entire lid assembly (part number varies by model).
Control Board Failure: On rare occasions, the main control board's lid lock relay burns out. This is more common if the old lock shorted out before you replaced it. You'll need a multimeter to test for 120V AC at the lock harness when the washer tries to start. No voltage = bad control board.
If you see the LID error plus other random error codes (like F7 E1 or F8 E1 at the same time), don't replace the lock—that's a control board issue, not a lid lock issue.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I bypass the lid lock to test if the washer works?
Technically yes, but you shouldn't. You can jumper two pins on the wiring harness to trick the control board into thinking the lid is locked, but the drum will spin at full speed with the lid open—extremely dangerous. The lid lock exists because top-load washers spin at 1000+ RPM. Bypass it only for a 10-second diagnostic test, never for normal operation.
Why does my washer click 5-6 times before showing the error?
That's the control board retrying the lock command. It sends power to the solenoid, waits 2 seconds for the switch signal, doesn't get it, and tries again. After 5-6 attempts over 10-15 seconds, it gives up and throws the LID error. This is actually helpful—if you hear clicking, you know the control board and wiring are fine, and the lock assembly itself is the problem.
Will this lock work on Kenmore washers with a LID error?
Maybe. Many Kenmore 500-series top-loaders (model numbers starting with 110.2807) were built by Whirlpool and use the same W11670519 lock. Check your Kenmore's model tag—if it lists Whirlpool as the manufacturer and your current lock has a white 6-pin connector, this part will fit. If your Kenmore has a 4-pin connector, you need a different lock assembly.
Before ordering a new lock, test the lid alignment by closing it and checking for an even gap all around. A misaligned strike plate causes the same symptoms as a failed lock but won't be fixed by replacing the W11670519.
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