Samsung Dishwasher HE Error Code — What It Means & How to Fix

You load the dishwasher after dinner, press start, and five minutes later it stops mid-cycle with "HE" flashing on the display. The water's barely warm, dishes are still dirty, and now you're wondering if you need a service call.

The HE error code on Samsung dishwashers means the heating element isn't reaching target temperature within the expected timeframe. Your dishwasher monitors water temperature constantly during the wash cycle — when it doesn't heat up properly, it throws this code and stops to prevent running a cold wash that won't clean anything.

What HE Error Actually Means

HE stands for "Heating Error." Your dishwasher has a temperature sensor (thermistor) that communicates with the control board. During normal operation, the heating element should bring water temperature to around 140-160°F. The sensor constantly reports back to the control board.

When the control board sees that water temperature isn't rising as expected after several minutes, it decides something's wrong with the heating system. It could be the sensor lying about the temperature, the heating element itself not working, or the control board misinterpreting the data.

Here's what matters: this isn't just an inconvenience. Modern dishwasher detergent requires hot water to activate properly. A dishwasher running cold or lukewarm won't dissolve detergent pods, won't sanitize dishes, and won't cut through grease.

Most Likely Causes (Ranked By Probability)

1. Failed Temperature Sensor Assembly (High Probability)

The ECS temperature sensor (part DD82-01118A) is the most common culprit. This component sits in the sump area where it constantly monitors water temperature. Over time, mineral deposits from hard water coat the sensor tip, or internal resistance values drift out of specification.

When the sensor fails, it typically reports incorrect temperature readings to the control board. The board thinks water is 70°F when it's actually 140°F, or vice versa. Either way, the system can't properly regulate heating and throws the HE code.

This part fails on models DW80F600UTB, DW80F600UTS, DW80F600UTW, DW80F800UWS, DW80J3020US, and dozens of other Samsung dishwashers manufactured between 2013-2019. It's a known wear item.

2. Heating Element Failure (Medium Probability)

The actual heating element could be burned out. You can test this with a multimeter — a working element should show 15-30 ohms of resistance. Zero ohms means it's shorted. Infinite resistance means it's open (burned out).

Elements fail from mineral buildup, age, or power surges. If your water is particularly hard, scale accumulation reduces heating efficiency over time until the element can't heat water fast enough to satisfy the control board.

3. Wiring Harness Corrosion (Medium Probability)

The connector that plugs into the temperature sensor sits in a humid environment. Corrosion on the pins creates high resistance in the circuit, which makes the control board think the sensor is reading incorrectly.

Look for white or green crusty buildup on the connector pins. Sometimes cleaning the connection with electrical contact cleaner solves the HE error without replacing any parts.

4. Control Board Misinterpretation (Low Probability)

Occasionally the main control board develops a fault in the temperature monitoring circuit. This is rare but possible, especially if you've already replaced the sensor and heating element but still get the HE code.

Step-by-Step Fix

What you'll need: Multimeter, 1/4" nut driver, towels, flashlight, replacement temperature sensor assembly (DD82-01118A).

Safety first: Unplug the dishwasher or flip the circuit breaker. There's 120V going to the heating element and control board. Water and electricity don't mix.

Step 1: Access the Sump Area

Pull out the bottom dish rack. Remove the spray arm by twisting it counterclockwise (some models lift straight up). Remove the filter assembly — it usually has a cylindrical fine filter inside a coarse filter basket.

You'll now see the sump cover, which is typically held by 2-3 screws. Remove these screws and lift out the cover. You're looking at the heating element loop and the temperature sensor.

Step 2: Test the Temperature Sensor

The temperature sensor (thermistor) should read approximately 50,000 ohms at room temperature (around 70°F). Disconnect it and measure resistance across its two terminals with your multimeter.

If you get a reading way outside this range — like 200k ohms or an open circuit — the sensor is bad. If it reads close to 50k, place it in a glass of ice water and test again. It should show higher resistance as temperature drops. No change in reading = bad sensor.

Step 3: Inspect the Heating Element

While you're in there, test the heating element. Disconnect its wires and measure resistance. You want 15-30 ohms typically (check your model's spec). Also check for continuity between each terminal and the metal sheath — you should get infinite resistance (no continuity). If there's continuity to ground, the element is shorted.

Step 4: Replace the Temperature Sensor

The DD82-01118A sensor assembly includes the thermistor and its mounting bracket. The old sensor typically has a clip or small bolt securing it. Remove the fastener, disconnect the wire harness, and pull out the old sensor.

Install the new sensor in the same position. Make sure it sits in the water flow path but doesn't interfere with the spray arm or filter assembly. Connect the wire harness — you should hear it click into place.

Step 5: Reassemble and Test

Put the sump cover back, reinstall the filter assembly and spray arm. Restore power. Run a short cycle and monitor the display. The HE error should not reappear if the sensor was the problem.

During the first few minutes, you can actually feel the door getting warm as the heating element does its job. That's a good sign.

When the Fix Doesn't Work

If you've replaced the temperature sensor and still get HE errors, check these items:

• Water inlet temperature: If your home's water heater is set below 120°F, the dishwasher struggles to reach target temperature even with a working heating element. Boost your water heater to 130-140°F.
• Heating element: Go back and replace it if you didn't test it thoroughly the first time. Elements can test fine with a multimeter but still fail under load.
• Control board: If both sensor and element are confirmed good, the main control board may need replacement. This is a $150-300 part plus labor, so verify everything else first.
• Wiring harness: Trace the wires from the sensor to the control board. Look for pinched, burned, or corroded wires anywhere in the path.

Some techs report that power cycling (unplugging for 5 minutes) can reset a control board that's thrown a false HE error. Worth trying before buying expensive parts.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I run my Samsung dishwasher with the HE error showing?

Technically yes, but you shouldn't. The dishwasher will attempt to run cold or lukewarm cycles, which means dishes won't get properly sanitized. Detergent won't dissolve completely. Grease won't cut. You'll end up rewashing everything by hand, which defeats the purpose. Fix it now before you waste water and time on ineffective wash cycles.

How much does it cost to fix a Samsung dishwasher HE error?

If it's the temperature sensor, you're looking at $75 for the part (DD82-01118A) plus about an hour of labor if you hire someone — so $200-275 total. DIY cost is just the $75 part. If it's the heating element, add another $50-80 for that part. Control board replacement runs $150-300 for the part alone, plus 1-2 hours labor. Most HE errors are fixed with just the sensor, making this a relatively affordable repair.

Why does my Samsung dishwasher show HE error only sometimes?

Intermittent HE errors usually mean the temperature sensor is on its way out but hasn't completely failed. As the sensor heats and cools during cycles, its internal resistance changes. When it drifts out of spec during operation, you get the error. Next cycle, it might start within spec and work fine. This is classic failing-sensor behavior. Replace it before it fails completely mid-cycle during a dinner party.