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Washer tub does not fill with water or fills extremely slowly; one or more solenoid coils have failed or inlet screens are blocked by mineral deposits.
Wash cycle runs with incorrect water temperature — only hot, only cold, or no warm mix — due to a failed hot or cold solenoid port on the triple valve.
Water drips or streams into the drum while the machine is powered off, indicating a valve solenoid is stuck open and must be replaced.
Drum fills beyond the selected water level or continues filling during spin or drain cycles, caused by a valve that fails to close on command.
Water pools beneath or behind the washer due to a cracked valve body or failed internal seal, often worsened by vibration during the spin cycle.
💡 Pro Tip: Is Your Water Inlet Valve the Culprit?
Your part is likely the culprit if you notice any of the following:
⚠️ Washer tub fills very slowly or not at all — especially on the cold setting
⚠️ Water drips or leaks into the tub while the machine is off (valve stuck open)
⚠️ Incorrect wash water temperature — too hot, too cold, or no warm option
⚠️ Washer overfills, or allows water in during the spin/drain cycle
Diagnosis tip: Set your multimeter to Rx1 and test each solenoid coil terminal on the valve. A healthy coil reads 200–500 Ω; an open or shorted reading (0 Ω or OL) confirms valve failure. Also inspect the mesh screens inside the valve inlet ports — sediment buildup is a leading cause of slow fill and can mimic solenoid failure.
📦 What's in the Box
✅ 1× Triple Water Inlet Valve Assembly (120V / 60Hz, 3-solenoid, replaces WH13X10033)
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Disclaimer: Compatibility information, part numbers, and model fitment data on this page are sourced from manufacturer databases and third-party references. While we strive for accuracy, please verify your appliance model number before ordering. Heima is not responsible for errors or omissions in compatibility listings.
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