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Valve solenoids fail to open, blocking water entry entirely — washer sits empty and will not begin the wash cycle.
Clogged inlet screens or weakened solenoids restrict water flow, causing the drum to fill too slowly or incompletely.
A stuck-open valve allows water to continuously enter the tub even when the control board sends no signal to fill.
One solenoid port fails while the other works, resulting in only a single water temperature being available regardless of cycle selection.
Cracked valve body or degraded internal seals cause water to drip or spray at the supply hose fittings or from the valve housing itself.
Some control boards sense an open or shorted inlet valve coil as a fault condition, preventing the cycle from initiating at all.
💡 Pro Tip: Is Your Water Inlet Valve the Problem?
Your part is likely the culprit if you notice any of the following:
⚠️ Washer will not fill with water or fills very slowly
⚠️ Washer overfills or will not stop filling
⚠️ No hot water or no cold water during wash cycle
⚠️ Water leaking from the inlet valve area or supply hose connections
Quick test: Turn off water supply and disconnect inlet hoses. Inspect the internal mesh screens for mineral scale buildup. If screens are clear but filling issues persist, use a multimeter to test solenoid coil resistance — a reading far outside spec confirms valve failure. Also verify home water pressure is at least 20 PSI before condemning the valve.
📦 What's in the Box
✅ 1× Water Inlet Valve Assembly with Thermistor/NTC Sensor (134959340)
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Disclaimer: Compatibility information, part numbers, and model fitment data on this page are sourced from manufacturer databases and third-party references. While we strive for accuracy, please verify your appliance model number before ordering. Heima is not responsible for errors or omissions in compatibility listings.
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