Whirlpool Washer Won't Start or Spin — 4 Lid Switch Failures & How to Fix

You load the washer, pour in detergent, close the lid... and nothing happens. No agitation. No spin. Just silence. One frustrated DIYer on the LTE5243DQ2 described it perfectly: "First I thought it may be the timer since it wasn't advancing to the next cycle, but after trying that it didn't seem to have any affect." Turns out, 80% of the time when a Whirlpool, Kenmore, or Roper washer refuses to start or spin, the culprit is a dead lid switch.

Quick Symptom Check

Your washer's lid switch is likely failed if you're experiencing:

• Won't start at all — you hear a click or absolutely nothing when you close the lid
• Fills with water but won't agitate — just sits there full of soapy water
• Won't spin or drain — clothes stay soaking wet at the end of the cycle
• Works intermittently — sometimes spins, sometimes doesn't, depending on how hard you slam the lid

The lid switch (part #3355806) is a safety mechanism that tells the washer "the lid is closed, it's safe to spin." When it fails, your washer thinks the lid is open 24/7, so it refuses to start the spin cycle. It's the appliance equivalent of thinking your car door is ajar when it's actually shut tight.

Cause #1: Mechanical Lid Switch Failure (Most Likely — 65%)

What's happening: The physical switch mechanism inside the assembly wears out from thousands of open-close cycles. The actuator that gets pressed when you close the lid no longer makes proper contact.

How to diagnose: With the washer unplugged, open the lid and manually press the switch actuator (the little plastic tab that sticks up). You should hear a distinct click. If it feels mushy or doesn't click, it's shot. You can also test continuity with a multimeter — the switch should show continuity when pressed, no continuity when released.

The fix: Replace the entire lid switch assembly. This isn't a repair job — once the switch mechanism fails, you replace it. The good news? It's one of the easiest washer repairs. Takes 30-60 minutes even if you've never touched a washer before.

Cost: $22.99 for the part, $0 in labor if you DIY

Cause #2: Broken Wiring Harness (20%)

What's happening: The wires connecting the lid switch to the control board get pinched, frayed, or corroded. The switch itself works fine, but the signal never reaches the brain of the washer.

How to diagnose: Unplug the washer and remove the lid switch. Inspect the wire connectors — look for green corrosion, burn marks, or wires that pull out of the connector housing easily. Wiggle the wires while watching the connector. If they move independently from the connector, you've got broken strands.

The fix: Sometimes you can get away with cleaning corroded connectors with electrical contact cleaner. But if wires are frayed or broken, replace the entire switch assembly — the wiring harness is integrated into it.

Cost: Same $22.99 for the complete assembly

Cause #3: Misaligned Lid Strike (10%)

What's happening: The metal or plastic strike plate on the underside of the lid that's supposed to press the switch has bent or shifted. The lid closes, but it's not actually activating the switch.

How to diagnose: Open the lid and look at the strike plate (the thing that sticks down). Close the lid slowly while watching the switch from inside the cabinet. Does the strike plate actually press the switch actuator? Sometimes the entire lid gets tweaked from someone sitting on it while it was open.

The fix: You can try bending the strike plate back into position with pliers. But this is temporary — once metal fatigues, it'll bend again. Better solution is replacing the lid switch with a new one that has a properly aligned housing.

Cost: $0 if realignment works, $22.99 if you need the new switch

Cause #4: Control Board Not Reading Switch Signal (5%)

What's happening: Rare, but it happens — the lid switch is perfect, the wiring is perfect, but the control board isn't processing the signal. Usually occurs after a power surge or if water got into the control panel.

How to diagnose: This is a diagnosis of elimination. If you've replaced the lid switch, tested all wiring, and the washer still won't start, you're looking at a control board issue. A repair tech can test this with a multimeter by checking if voltage is reaching the switch terminals.

The fix: Control board replacement — this is where you call a pro or consider if the washer is worth fixing.

Cost: $150-$300 for the control board, plus $150-$200 labor

DIY Replacement: What You Actually Need to Know

Here's what one DIYer learned the hard way on an LTE5243BN2: "Getting the back two screws out was very difficult because I couldn't see them from the front and I could not move the unit out of the enclosed space." Don't be that person.

Before you start:

• Unplug the washer completely — not just turning it off at the dial
• If it's in a tight laundry closet, you'll need to pull it forward for rear screw access
• Have a headlamp or work light — those back bolts are invisible without one

The actual process:

1. Disconnect power (unplug it)
2. Remove the two screws at the top rear of the washer cabinet holding the lid down
3. Lift the lid assembly up and off — there's an earth/ground terminal attached, so disconnect that wire
4. Unplug the wire harness from the old switch (usually a push-tab connector)
5. Install the new switch, reconnect the ground wire, plug in the harness
6. Bolt the lid back down with those two rear screws
7. Plug the washer back in and test

Compatible with models like the LTE5243DQ0, LTE5243DQ1, LTE5243DQ2, LTE5243BN0, LTE5243BW0, and dozens of other Whirlpool, Kenmore, Roper, and Maytag washers. Replaces OEM part numbers WP3355806, AP6008072, PS11741201, and 520880.

When to Call a Pro

Call a repair tech if:

• You've replaced the switch and the washer still won't start
• The washer makes grinding or burning smells when you try to start it
• You're not comfortable working with electrical connections
• The washer is showing error codes on a digital display

But honestly? This is one of the friendliest DIY repairs out there. If you can use a screwdriver and aren't afraid to unplug something, you can do this. That $150 service call pays for a nice dinner instead.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I bypass the lid switch to see if that's really the problem?

Technically yes — you can jumper the two switch wires together to simulate a closed lid. But don't run the washer this way. It's a safety device for a reason — if you open the lid during spin, you could get seriously hurt by the spinning basket. Use this only as a 30-second diagnostic test, then disconnect the jumper immediately.

Why does my washer sometimes work if I slam the lid really hard?

Classic symptom of a worn lid switch. The contacts inside are corroded or misaligned, and the extra force from slamming temporarily makes them connect. It'll work less and less often until it stops completely. Replace it now before you're doing laundry at your in-laws' house.

Is the $22.99 part as good as the $45 OEM version from the dealer?

Yes. Part #3355806 is manufactured to OEM specifications and replaces the original Whirlpool part WP3355806. It's the exact same switch mechanism. The price difference is markup, not quality. Save the $22 for the detergent you'll need after you get this thing working again.