How to Replace W10006356 Washer Splutch Cam Kit on Whirlpool & Maytag Washers — Step-by-Step

Your Whirlpool washer stopped agitating mid-cycle, leaving a tub full of soaking wet clothes. When you try to restart it, you hear grinding noises and smell something burning. If you've got a model like the WTW5000DW1 or MVWX655DW1 making these symptoms, the splutch cam assembly has likely stripped its splines. This isn't a repair you can patch — you need to replace the entire clutch assembly kit.

What You Need Before Starting

This repair requires flipping your washer on its back, so clear a workspace with an old blanket or cardboard to protect your floor. The W10006356 kit includes the complete clutch assembly, which is critical — attempting to replace individual clutch pieces leads to premature failure.

• Socket wrench set (for mounting bolts)
• Flathead screwdriver
• Work gloves (the clutch springs are under tension)
• Helper (washers are heavy and awkward to tip)

Repair Time: 45-60 minutes

Difficulty: Moderate

Safety First

Unplug your washer completely before starting. Shut off both hot and cold water supply valves, then disconnect the inlet hoses. Water will drain from the hoses, so have towels ready. If your washer still has water in the tub, run a drain cycle first or manually bail it out. The clutch assembly sits directly under the transmission — you'll be working underneath, so make sure the washer is stable when tipped back.

Step 1: Access the Bottom of the Washer

Pull the washer away from the wall. Disconnect the drain hose and set it in a bucket. With a helper, carefully tip the washer onto its back. You'll see the motor, pump, and clutch assembly bolted to the underside. Laying it flat gives you clear access without crawling underneath a propped-up machine.

Step 2: Remove the Old Clutch Assembly

The clutch assembly connects between the transmission drive shaft and the basket drive. Locate the mounting bolts securing the clutch band to the washer cabinet — there are typically three or four. Use your socket wrench to remove these bolts completely. The clutch will drop away from the transmission shaft once the bolts are out. If the splines are stripped, you'll see metal shavings or worn teeth on the drive block.

Step 3: Inspect the Drive Block and Shaft

Before installing the new W10006356 kit, check the transmission drive shaft for damage. Wipe away any debris or old grease with a clean rag. Look for cracks in the plastic drive block — if it's cracked, you'll need to address that separately. The new clutch won't seat properly on a damaged shaft, and you'll end up with the same spinning and agitation problems within weeks.

Step 4: Install the New W10006356 Clutch Assembly

Align the new clutch assembly's inner splines with the transmission drive shaft. Slide it up until it seats completely — you'll feel it lock into position. The clutch pads should sit evenly around the basket drive tube. Thread the mounting bolts back through the clutch band and into the cabinet frame. Tighten them in a star pattern to ensure even pressure. Don't overtighten — you'll crack the housing.

Step 5: Reassemble and Test

Tip the washer back upright with your helper. Reconnect the water supply hoses (hot to hot, cold to cold) and plug the power cord back in. Run a complete wash cycle without clothes to verify the clutch is engaging properly. Listen for the agitation action during the wash phase — it should sound smooth, not grinding. During the spin cycle, the tub should accelerate quickly without slipping or burning smells.

Testing After Installation

After your test cycle completes, check for water leaks around the hose connections you removed. Run one more load with a few towels to confirm the washer agitates thoroughly and spins at full speed. If you still hear grinding or the basket isn't spinning up, double-check that the clutch assembly is fully seated on the drive shaft — sometimes it needs a firm push to lock in.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why won't my washer agitate but it still spins?

When the clutch splines strip partially, the washer can still build enough friction to spin the basket but lacks the torque to agitate properly during the wash phase. This is a classic sign the W10006356 clutch assembly needs replacement. You'll often hear clicking or ratcheting sounds as the stripped splines slip under load.

Can I replace just the clutch pads instead of the whole assembly?

No — attempting to replace individual components of the clutch assembly leads to misalignment and premature failure. The W10006356 kit includes the clutch band, spring, pads, and drive block as a matched set. Installing the complete assembly ensures proper tension and engagement, which you can't achieve mixing old and new parts.

How do I know if the clutch is bad or if it's the motor coupler?

If the motor runs but nothing moves, check the coupler first — it's easier to access and fails more often. If the motor runs and you hear grinding or the basket spins slowly with burning smells, that points to the clutch assembly. On models like the WTW4816FW1 or MVWC415EW1, a failed clutch will often leave black rubber marks on clothes from slipping pads.