How to Replace 134792700 Dryer Heater Element on Frigidaire Electric Dryer — Step-by-Step

Your Frigidaire dryer's running, the drum's spinning, but your clothes come out just as damp as when you threw them in. That's the classic sign of a failed heater element — and on models like the FASE7074LA0 or LAQE7000LW0, the 134792700 element is the culprit nine times out of ten. The good news? This is one of those repairs that looks scarier than it actually is.

What You Need Before Starting

Here's what you'll need to complete this repair:

• ¼-inch nut driver or socket set
• Phillips head screwdriver
• Multimeter (to test the old element)
• Work gloves (those metal edges are sharp)
• Flashlight or headlamp

Estimated repair time: 45-60 minutes for first-timers, 25 minutes if you've done it before

Difficulty level: MODERATE — You'll need to pull the dryer away from the wall and remove some panels, but there's no wiring complexity.

Safety First

Unplug the dryer from the wall outlet completely. If it's hardwired, flip the breaker. Electric dryers run on 240 volts, and that's not something you want to mess around with. Even though you won't be touching any live wires during this repair, disconnecting power is non-negotiable. Let the dryer cool down for at least 30 minutes if you've been running it — that heating chamber gets hot enough to leave a mark.

Step 1: Access the Heater Element Housing

Pull the dryer away from the wall so you can work. You're going after the lower front panel on most Frigidaire models. Pop off the toe panel at the bottom (it usually just unclips), then remove the screws securing the lower front access panel. On the FASE7073 series, there are typically two screws at the bottom corners. Slide the panel forward and lift it off the mounting tabs.

Step 2: Locate and Remove the Heating Element Assembly

You'll see a metal housing box on the right side (some models have it on the left — check yours). That's your heating element assembly. It's held in by three or four screws around the perimeter. Before you remove anything, take a photo with your phone — it'll save you headaches during reassembly. Disconnect the two wire terminals on top of the housing. They just pull straight off, no twisting needed.

Step 3: Inspect for a Broken Coil

Pull the heating element out of the housing. Here's what you're looking for: the element is a coiled wire wrapped around a ceramic frame. If it's defective, you'll often see a visible break in the coil — it looks like someone snipped the wire with scissors. Sometimes the break is subtle, hidden between coils. This is why your dryer suddenly stopped heating even though everything else works fine. If you've got a multimeter, test for continuity across the terminals. No continuity means the element's toast.

Step 4: Check the Thermal Fuse Before Installing the New Element

Here's something most DIY guides skip: if the dryer doesn't heat, check for a blown thermal fuse or thermal cut-out before you button everything back up. The thermal fuse is usually mounted on the heating element housing or on the blower housing. It's a small, usually white component with two wires. Test it with your multimeter for continuity. If it's blown (no continuity), you need to replace it too — otherwise your brand-new element won't heat either. A blown thermal fuse usually means your dryer's vent is restricted, so check that exhaust duct while you're at it.

Step 5: Install the 134792700 Replacement Element

Slide the new 134792700 element into the housing. Make sure it sits flush — there are usually alignment tabs that keep it positioned correctly. Reconnect those two wire terminals (they only go on one way, so don't overthink it). Bolt the housing back into place with the screws you removed earlier. Reattach the lower front panel, snap the toe panel back on, and push the dryer back into position.

Testing After Installation

Plug the dryer back in and run it on high heat with nothing inside for about five minutes. You should feel hot air coming out of the exhaust within two minutes. Open the door mid-cycle — the drum should be warm to the touch. If you're still not getting heat, double-check those wire connections and verify the thermal fuse isn't blown. On models like the FASE7074NW2 or FASE7021NW3, the high-limit thermostat can also fail, but that's less common than a bad element.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long should a Frigidaire dryer heating element last?

Most heating elements last 10-15 years with normal use. If yours failed sooner, it's usually because of restricted airflow from a clogged vent. The element works harder when air can't flow freely, and that extra stress causes the coil to burn out prematurely. Clean your lint trap after every load and check your exterior vent once a year.

Can I test the heating element without removing it?

You can test for continuity with a multimeter while it's still installed, but you won't see a visual break in the coil unless you pull it out. Set your multimeter to ohms and touch the probes to the two terminals. You should get a reading between 10-50 ohms depending on the model. Infinite resistance means it's broken somewhere inside.

Will this element work on my Kenmore dryer?

The 134792700 is compatible with several Kenmore models that were manufactured by Frigidaire (Kenmore doesn't make appliances — they rebrand other manufacturers' products). Check your model number against the compatibility list. If your Kenmore starts with 110, it's likely a Whirlpool and needs a different element. If it starts with 417, it's probably Frigidaire and this part should fit.