How to Replace WB44K10005 Oven Bake Element on GE Hotpoint Kenmore — Step-by-Step

You preheated your GE oven to 350°F for that chicken dinner, but twenty minutes later the oven's still stone cold. The bake element — that coiled heating rod at the bottom of your oven — is the most common culprit. When it fails, you'll see visible blistering along the metal coil, or the element simply won't glow red anymore. Models like the JBP22BK5WH and RB526C2WW use the WB44K10005 element, and it's one of the easiest appliance repairs you can tackle yourself.

What You Need Before Starting

• Phillips head screwdriver
• 1/4" nut driver or socket wrench
• Work gloves (element brackets can have sharp edges)
• Flashlight or work light

Repair Time: 15-20 minutes

Difficulty: Easy — Perfect first DIY repair

Safety First

Unplug your range completely or flip the breaker labeled for your kitchen range. Electric ranges pull 240 volts, and even with the oven off, the element terminals carry live current if the unit's still plugged in. Wait at least 10 minutes after disconnecting power to let any residual heat dissipate from the oven cavity. Don't skip this — bake elements retain heat longer than you'd think.

Step 1: Remove the Oven Racks and Locate the Element Bracket

Pull out all oven racks so you've got clear access to the oven floor. The bake element is that thick coiled piece lying flat across the bottom. Look toward the back wall — you'll see two screws or hex bolts holding a metal bracket that secures the element. On models like the JBS27WH2WW, these are typically 1/4" hex bolts. Some Hotpoint models use Phillips screws instead.

Step 2: Disconnect the Element Bracket

Use your nut driver or screwdriver to remove both bracket fasteners. The element will pull forward slightly, but don't yank it yet. You'll notice the element loops through the back wall into a separate compartment. Gently pull the element about 3-4 inches forward until you can see the wire terminals behind the rear panel.

Step 3: Disconnect the Wire Terminals

Two spade terminals push onto the element prongs. Grab each wire connector (not the wire itself) and pull straight off. They might be snug — wiggle gently if needed. If you see any black soot or burn marks around the terminals, that's evidence of arcing, which confirms the element failed. Take a quick photo of the wire positions before disconnecting if you want a reference, though both wires are interchangeable on this element.

Step 4: Remove the Failed Element

Once both wires are off, carefully pull the element straight toward you and out of the oven cavity. Check the old element for obvious damage — you'll often see a visible break in the coil, blistering on the metal surface, or a hole burned through. That separation prevents electrical current from flowing, which is why your oven won't heat.

Step 5: Install the WB44K10005 Replacement

Slide your new WB44K10005 element through the rear wall opening the same way the old one came out. Push the wire terminals firmly onto both element prongs until they click into place. There's no polarity to worry about — either wire works on either terminal. Position the element flat against the oven floor, align the mounting bracket holes, and reinstall both screws or bolts. Tighten them snug but don't overtighten — you're just securing the bracket, not torquing down a bolt on an engine.

Testing After Installation

Replace your oven racks, restore power at the breaker or plug, and set your oven to bake at 350°F. Within 60-90 seconds, the new element should start glowing red from the center outward. Let it run for 5 minutes to ensure even heating across the entire coil. If one section stays dark, you've got a loose terminal connection — power down and reseat those connectors. You might notice a slight burning smell during the first heat cycle; that's just manufacturing oils burning off the new element and it'll disappear after 10 minutes.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why did my bake element fail in the first place?

Bake elements fail from simple wear and repeated heat cycling. Every time the element heats up and cools down, the metal expands and contracts. After hundreds of baking cycles, that stress creates weak points in the coil where breaks or blisters form. It's normal wear, not a sign of electrical problems elsewhere. Most elements last 5-7 years with regular use.

Will this element work if my oven temperature seems off?

If your oven heats but runs too hot or too cold, the bake element probably isn't the issue — that points to a faulty temperature sensor or oven control board. Replace the element when it won't heat at all, heats unevenly with visible damage, or you see physical breaks in the coil. If the element glows evenly but your oven still runs 50 degrees too hot, you need a different repair.

Can I test the old element with a multimeter?

Yes. Set your multimeter to resistance (ohms) and touch the probes to each element terminal. A working bake element should read 15-30 ohms of resistance. Infinite resistance (no reading) means the element has an open circuit and needs replacement. Zero ohms means it's shorted and will trip your breaker. This test works great for confirming the element failed before ordering the part.