Whirlpool Washer Won't Start — Lid Lock Strike Failure & How to Fix It

You load the laundry, add detergent, press Start—and nothing. Your Whirlpool washer just sits there like it's on strike. The lid's closed. The power's on. But the machine refuses to budge. One frustrated Maytag owner described it perfectly: "I saved $600 dollars for simply refusing to pay such ridiculous repair prices." They replaced the lid lock strike themselves in under 30 minutes.

Here's what's likely happening: your washer's lid lock strike—that small plastic piece mounted under the lid—has cracked or shifted. When the lid latch can't engage with the strike properly, the washer thinks the lid is open and won't start the cycle. It's a safety feature that becomes a massive inconvenience when this $12 part fails.

Quick Symptom Check

Your washer has a lid lock strike problem if you're experiencing:

• Washer won't start at all — you hear clicking or nothing when you press Start
• Lid won't latch properly — the lid closes but doesn't feel secure or make the usual locking sound
• Error codes related to lid lock — your display shows lid-related fault codes
• Intermittent starting — sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't, depending on how you close the lid
• Visible damage to the strike — you can see cracks or the strike has shifted position under the lid

Cause #1: Cracked or Broken Lid Lock Strike (85% of Cases)

The lid lock strike on Whirlpool, Maytag, and Kenmore top-loaders is made of plastic. Over time, the repeated force of the lid closing—especially if someone slams it—causes stress fractures. Eventually, it cracks completely or a mounting tab breaks off.

How to diagnose: Open your washer lid and look at the underside. You'll see a small white or gray plastic piece (usually about 2 inches long) mounted with two screws near the front center. Gently wiggle it. If it moves excessively or you see any cracks, that's your problem. On models like the WTW4800XQ series or WTW4810EW, this strike is particularly prone to cracking because of the lid weight.

The fix: Replace the W10240513 lid lock strike. You'll need a Phillips-head screwdriver, and the repair takes 15-30 minutes. One user with a Maytag MVWX500BW0 ordered the strike (along with other parts just to be safe) and reported: "My washer now runs just like it did when it was brand new!"

Cost: $10–$15 for the part. Compare that to the $150–$300 service call.

Cause #2: Misaligned Lid Lock Strike (10% of Cases)

Sometimes the strike isn't broken—it's just shifted position. If the mounting screws have loosened over time, the strike can rotate slightly or drop down. Now the lid latch is trying to engage with thin air.

How to diagnose: Close the lid slowly and watch where the latch tries to engage. Open the lid and examine the strike position. It should be directly in line with the latch mechanism. If it's rotated even 5–10 degrees, that's enough to prevent proper engagement.

The fix: Sometimes you can simply loosen the mounting screws, reposition the strike, and tighten them back down. But if the screw holes in the plastic have worn out (common after multiple realignments), you'll need to replace the entire strike assembly anyway.

Cost: Free if realignment works, otherwise same $10–$15 replacement cost.

Cause #3: Worn Strike Surface (5% of Cases)

Even if the strike isn't cracked, the engagement surface can wear smooth after years of use. The latch needs to grip a specific texture or shape to register that the lid is locked. A worn-smooth strike won't provide that feedback to the sensor.

How to diagnose: Compare your strike to photos of a new W10240513 part online. Look for rounded edges, smooth spots, or missing texture where the latch makes contact. This wear pattern is most common on washers that are 5+ years old with heavy daily use.

The fix: Replacement is the only option. There's no way to restore the worn surface.

The 15-Minute Fix (Easier Than You Think)

A handy teenage son successfully replaced this part following video instructions, according to one parent who wrote: "The washer is back to working perfectly for under $100" (they replaced multiple parts). Here's what you'll do:

1. Unplug the washer — safety first, always
2. Open the lid fully — you need clear access to the underside
3. Locate the strike — it's mounted near the front center of the lid underside
4. Remove two Phillips screws — hold the old strike as you remove the second screw so it doesn't drop
5. Position the new W10240513 strike — make sure it's aligned with the latch below
6. Install the screws — tighten firmly but don't overtighten and crack the new plastic
7. Test the latch — close the lid slowly and listen for the engaging sound
8. Run a test cycle — your washer should start normally now

This repair works on Whirlpool models WTW4800XQ0 through XQ5, WTW4810EW series, WTW4816FW models, and dozens of Maytag, Amana, Kenmore, and Roper washers that use the same lid lock system.

When to Call a Pro

You should skip the DIY and call for service if:

• The strike looks perfect but the washer still won't start (the problem is likely the lid lock assembly itself, not the strike)
• You're not comfortable working with your hands—though honestly, if you can assemble IKEA furniture, you can handle this
• The lid or latch mechanism shows signs of physical damage beyond just the strike
• Your washer is still under warranty (don't void it for a $12 part)

But realistically? This is one of the easiest washer repairs you'll ever do. The strike is right there on the lid. No need to tip the machine, remove panels, or disconnect water lines.

Frequently Asked Questions

Will any lid lock strike work with my Whirlpool washer?

The W10240513 replaces several part numbers including WPW10240513, AP6017583, PS11750882, and older numbers like AP4514459. It fits Whirlpool, Maytag, Amana, Kenmore, and Roper top-load washers made in the last 10–15 years. Check your model number against the compatibility list—models like WTW4800XQ, WTW4810EW, and WTW4816FW series all use this exact part.

Can I use super glue to fix a cracked lid lock strike?

Don't. The strike endures significant force every time the lid closes and the latch engages. Glue might hold for a few cycles, but it'll fail again—probably mid-cycle when you've got soaking wet laundry locked inside. At $12, a new strike isn't worth the gamble of a glue repair.

My washer worked fine for 10 years, then suddenly stopped—why does the strike fail?

Plastic fatigue. Every time you close the lid, the strike flexes slightly as the latch engages. After thousands of cycles, microscopic cracks form and propagate until the part fails. It's not a manufacturing defect—it's just normal wear on a part designed to be replaced. Think of it like brake pads on a car.