How to Replace 279834 Dryer Gas Valve Coil Kit on Whirlpool & Maytag Gas Dryers — Step-by-Step

Your Whirlpool LGR7646EQ3 is running through a full cycle, tumbling clothes perfectly, but they come out cold and damp every single time. You watch through the door and notice the igniter glowing bright orange for a few seconds, then clicking off without ever lighting the gas. That's the telltale sign your gas valve coils have failed — they're energized but too weak to actually open the valve and let gas flow to the burner.

The 279834 gas valve coil kit controls whether gas flows into your dryer's burner assembly. When the dryer calls for heat, these electromagnetic coils pull open the gas valve. Over time, the coils weaken and can no longer generate enough magnetic force to open the valve fully, even though the igniter still glows normally. This repair works on dozens of Whirlpool, Maytag, Kenmore, and KitchenAid gas dryer models including the LGR5644JQ0, LGR4634EQ2, and LGR6611LQ0.

What You Need Before Starting

This is a straightforward repair that most DIYers can handle with basic tools:

• 1/4" nut driver or socket
• Flathead screwdriver
• Needlenose pliers
• Work gloves (sheet metal edges are sharp)
• Flashlight or headlamp

Difficulty: Moderate
Estimated Time: 30-45 minutes
Cost: $24.99 for the 279834 coil kit

Safety First

Warning: You're working with a gas appliance. Turn off the gas supply valve to the dryer before starting — it's typically located on the gas line behind or beside the dryer. Unplug the dryer from the electrical outlet. Even with the gas off, there may be residual gas in the line, so work in a well-ventilated area and avoid creating sparks. If you smell gas at any point during this repair, stop immediately, open windows, leave the area, and call your gas company.

Step 1: Access the Burner Assembly

Unplug your dryer and turn off the gas supply valve. Pull the dryer away from the wall so you can work comfortably. Most Whirlpool and Maytag gas dryers have the burner assembly accessible from the front lower panel. Remove the lint screen, then use your 1/4" nut driver to remove the two screws inside the lint chute. Pop off the lower toe panel (it usually just pulls out from clips at the bottom), then remove the screws holding the front lower access panel. Some models like the LGR7648KQ1 have the burner accessible from the rear panel instead — check your model's configuration.

Step 2: Locate the Gas Valve Assembly

Once the panel is off, you'll see the burner assembly tube extending horizontally. Follow that tube back toward the gas supply, and you'll find the gas valve — it's the metal housing where the gas line connects, usually mounted on the left side. The valve coils are the two cylindrical components stacked on top of the valve body. On the LGR5636EQ3 and similar models, the valve sits low and close to the floor of the cabinet. Take a photo with your phone before disconnecting anything — it'll help during reassembly.

Step 3: Remove the Failed Coils

The coils are held in place by a metal bracket and connect via push-on wire terminals. Carefully pull the wire connectors straight off the coil terminals — don't yank on the wires themselves. Remove the bracket screw (usually just one) that secures the coils to the valve body. The coils should slide straight up and off the valve stems. You'll notice they're surprisingly light — they're just copper wire wrapped around a plastic core. The magnetic force they generate when energized is what opens the valve, and that force weakens as the coils age and develop internal shorts or breaks.

Step 4: Install the New 279834 Coil Kit

Slide the new coils from your 279834 kit onto the valve stems in the same orientation as the old ones — there's usually a flat side that aligns with the valve body. Reinstall the mounting bracket and screw it down snugly but don't overtighten (you're threading into soft metal). Push the wire terminals firmly onto the new coil terminals until you feel them click into place. Give each connection a gentle tug to confirm it's secure. The terminals should face the same direction as in your reference photo.

Step 5: Reassemble and Test

Reinstall the access panel and toe panel, then push the dryer back into position (but leave a bit of space so you can observe the first test cycle). Turn the gas supply back on and plug in the dryer. Check all your connections for gas leaks using soapy water on the valve connections — bubbles mean a leak that needs tightening. Run the dryer on high heat with nothing inside. Within two to three minutes, you should hear the gas ignite with a soft whoosh and see flame through the panel gaps. The dryer should maintain steady heat throughout the cycle. If the igniter glows but doesn't light within 30 seconds, double-check that the gas is turned on and the coil wire connections are fully seated.

Testing After Installation

Run a complete drying cycle with a load of damp towels. The burner should cycle on and off normally — typically running for a few minutes, shutting off when the thermostat is satisfied, then reigniting when the temperature drops. Listen for smooth ignition without delay or multiple clicking attempts. Check that your clothes actually come out hot and dry, not just warm or damp. If you're still having heating issues after replacing the coils, the problem might be a failed igniter, flame sensor, or clogged burner tube — but in most cases where the igniter glows without lighting, the 279834 coil kit solves it completely.

Frequently Asked Questions

Will this fix a dryer that doesn't heat at all?

It depends on the symptoms. If your igniter glows orange but the gas never lights, yes — failed coils are the most likely cause. But if the igniter doesn't glow at all, you've got a different problem (probably a bad igniter, thermal fuse, or cycling thermostat). If the dryer heats intermittently, weak coils could be the culprit since they may work when cool but fail when hot.

Do I need to replace both coils even if only one failed?

Absolutely replace both. The 279834 kit includes both coils for a reason — they wear out at similar rates, and if one has failed, the other isn't far behind. Plus, the coils work together to open the valve properly. Installing just one new coil alongside one old weak coil won't give you reliable operation.

Is this the same as replacing the entire gas valve?

No, and that's the good news. The valve body itself rarely fails — it's just a mechanical valve that opens when the coils create a magnetic field. Replacing the coils (the 279834 kit) is much cheaper and easier than replacing the entire valve assembly, which would require disconnecting and reconnecting gas lines. If your igniter glows but doesn't light, try the coils first before considering a full valve replacement.