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Excessive ice or frost sheet covering the evaporator coils because the defrost heater never receives power to run a complete defrost cycle.
Fridge section is warm while freezer stays cold — ice-blocked coils restrict airflow from freezer to refrigerator compartment.
If the thermostat is shorted closed it may allow the defrost heater to run too long, causing the freezer section to reach abnormally high temperatures during the defrost cycle.
A thermostat that is open at room temperature breaks the defrost heater circuit, preventing the heater from activating at all.
Frost-clogged evaporator forces the compressor to run non-stop trying to maintain set temperatures, leading to high energy bills and compressor wear.
💡 Pro Tip: Is Your Defrost Thermostat Failing?
Your part is likely the culprit if you notice any of the following:
⚠️ Thick frost or ice sheet covering the back wall of the freezer compartment
⚠️ Refrigerator section is warm but freezer feels cold — food spoiling on fridge side
⚠️ Defrost heater never turns on (no sizzle/dripping sounds during defrost cycle)
⚠️ Compressor runs almost continuously without cycling off
🔍 Quick Test: Disconnect power, remove the freezer rear panel, and clip a multimeter lead across the thermostat terminals. At room temperature it must show continuity (closed). If it reads open (OL) at room temp, the thermostat has failed and must be replaced. Also verify the evaporator coil is copper where the clip attaches — clipping onto aluminum can damage the coil.
📦 What's in the Box
✅ 1× Defrost Bi-Metal High-Limit Thermostat WR50X10068 (L140-30F, 11" leads, 5/16" clip)
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Disclaimer: Compatibility information, part numbers, and model fitment data on this page are sourced from manufacturer databases and third-party references. While we strive for accuracy, please verify your appliance model number before ordering. Heima is not responsible for errors or omissions in compatibility listings.
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