Whirlpool Washer Won't Drain — 5 Causes & How to Fix W11399437

You threw in a load before work, and now you're staring at a drum full of soaking wet clothes that just won't spin out. The washer's done with its cycle, but there's still standing water at the bottom. You've tried running another drain cycle—nothing. One customer with a WTW5100HW3 told us simply: "The drain pump went out." If your Whirlpool, Maytag, or Kenmore top-load washer is giving you long drain errors or refusing to drain entirely, you're dealing with one of five common culprits.

Quick Symptom Check

• Water remains in tub after cycle completes
• Error codes mentioning "long drain" or "LdL"
• Washer completes wash cycle but won't spin clothes dry
• Humming or buzzing sound during drain cycle but no water movement
• Visible water pooling at bottom of drum after final spin

Cause #1: Failed Drain Pump (Most Common — 60% Probability)

The drain pump is what physically moves water out of your washer tub and into your home's drain line. These pumps are workhorses—they run every single cycle, often multiple times. On models like the WTW5000DW3, WTW5005KW0, and WTW5010LW0, the W11399437 pump assembly handles thousands of gallons over its lifetime. Eventually, wear and tear catches up.

Here's how it fails: The motor windings inside the pump burn out, or the impeller (the little spinning blade inside) cracks and stops moving water. Sometimes you'll hear a humming sound—that's the motor trying to run but the impeller's seized. Other times, complete silence because the motor's dead.

How to diagnose: Unplug the washer. Access the pump (it's at the bottom front on most Whirlpool top-loaders—you'll need to tip the machine back or remove the front lower panel). Spin the pump impeller by hand. It should rotate freely with slight resistance. If it's stuck solid or spins with zero resistance (broken), the pump's toast. Check for visible cracks in the pump housing too—leaks indicate it's time for replacement.

Fix: Replace with W11399437 pump assembly. You'll need nut drivers, pliers, and a screwdriver. Expect 15-30 minutes for the swap. Disconnect the hoses (have towels ready for residual water), remove mounting screws, unplug the wire harness, and reverse the process with the new pump. This is rated "Very Easy" difficulty.

Cause #2: Clogged Pump or Debris in Impeller (25% Probability)

Before the pump mechanically fails, something might be stopping it from working. Coins, bobby pins, small socks, lint buildup—all of this junk makes its way past the tub and gets stuck in the pump. The impeller can't spin, so water won't move.

I've pulled out everything from guitar picks to underwire from bras. One customer's WTW5015LW1 had a plastic agitator cap fragment wedged in there. The pump was fine—just blocked.

How to diagnose: Access the pump the same way as above. Remove the inlet hose and shine a flashlight into the pump chamber. Look for visible obstructions. Try rotating the impeller—if it's stiff or you hear grinding, there's something in there. You might need to remove the pump entirely to clear it out.

Fix: Clear the debris, reassemble, and test. If the pump runs freely after cleaning and you don't see cracks or worn bearings, you might get away without replacing it. But if it's been running with debris for a while, the motor or impeller could be damaged anyway—in which case you're back to replacing the W11399437 assembly.

Cause #3: Kinked or Clogged Drain Hose (10% Probability)

Sometimes the pump's working perfectly, but water has nowhere to go. The drain hose (the corrugated hose running from your washer to the wall drain or laundry tub) can kink if the washer's been moved or pushed back too far against the wall. It can also accumulate lint and detergent sludge over time, creating a partial blockage.

How to diagnose: Pull the washer out from the wall. Trace the drain hose from the pump to the standpipe or sink. Look for sharp bends or kinks. Disconnect the hose at the standpipe and blow through it—you should feel minimal resistance. If it's clogged, you might see water or sludge come out the other end.

Fix: Straighten any kinks. If clogged, run hot water through the hose or use a plumbing snake to clear it. Replace the hose if it's deteriorated or permanently kinked.

Cause #4: Faulty Lid Switch or Door Lock (3% Probability)

Your washer won't drain if it thinks the lid is open. Most Whirlpool top-loaders have a lid switch that tells the control board when it's safe to spin and drain. If this switch fails, the washer might fill and agitate but refuse to drain and spin.

How to diagnose: Open and close the lid. You should hear a click. If not, the switch might be broken. You can test it with a multimeter—access the switch under the top panel (near the lid hinge) and check for continuity when the lid is closed.

Fix: Replace the lid switch assembly. This is separate from the drain pump issue, but it can cause identical symptoms.

Cause #5: Control Board Issue (2% Probability)

Rarely, the main control board fails to send power to the drain pump even when everything else is fine. This is uncommon but possible, especially after a power surge.

How to diagnose: This is a process of elimination. If you've confirmed the pump motor is good, there's no blockage, the hoses are clear, and the lid switch works—but the pump still won't run—check voltage at the pump connector during a drain cycle. No voltage means a control board or wiring issue.

Fix: This requires a technician unless you're comfortable with electrical diagnostics. Control boards for Whirlpool washers run $150-$300 plus labor.

When to Call a Pro

If you've pulled the pump, cleared debris, tested the hoses, and it still won't drain—or if you're getting voltage readings that don't make sense—it's time to call someone. Also, if you're not comfortable tipping the washer back or working with electrical connectors, don't force it. A drain pump replacement by a tech will cost $200-$300 including labor, which isn't far off from the cost of the part itself ($122.99 for W11399437) if you buy it and attempt the fix yourself unsuccessfully.

That said, this repair is genuinely rated "Very Easy" by manufacturers. If you can use a screwdriver and aren't afraid of a little water spillage, you'll likely succeed.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I know if my Whirlpool washer pump is bad?

Three telltale signs: standing water after the cycle, a humming sound during drain with no water movement, or complete silence when the drain cycle should activate. Pull the pump and check if the impeller spins freely—if it's seized or cracked, it's failed. The W11399437 pump typically fails after years of use due to wear on the motor or impeller damage from debris.

Can I use my washer if the drain pump is broken?

Technically no. The washer will fill and agitate, but it won't drain or spin. You'll be left with soaking wet clothes and standing water. Continuing to run cycles can also damage other components—the motor and transmission work harder when there's extra water weight during the spin attempt. Plus, standing water in the tub can develop mold and mildew odors within 24-48 hours.

Will the W11399437 pump work on Maytag and Kenmore washers?

Yes—this pump is cross-compatible with multiple brands under the Whirlpool Corporation umbrella. It replaces part numbers W11259498, AP6974144, and PS12731241. Check your model number against the compatibility list, but it fits dozens of Whirlpool, Maytag, Kenmore, and Crosley top-load washers including the WTW5000, WTW5005, WTW5010, WTW5015, and WTW5057 series.