Whirlpool Dryer Not Heating — 5 Causes & How to Fix
You toss a load of wet towels into your Whirlpool dryer, hit start, and come back 60 minutes later to find them still damp and cold. The drum's spinning fine, the timer's counting down, but there's zero heat. This is one of the most common dryer complaints we see — and it's usually one of five parts that's failed.
The good news? Most of these fixes are DIY-friendly if you're comfortable unplugging your dryer and using a screwdriver. Let's walk through each cause in order of likelihood, so you can diagnose and fix your Whirlpool (or Maytag, Kenmore, or Amana — they share the same heating system) without unnecessary parts swapping.
Quick Symptom Check
Before you start pulling panels, confirm these symptoms match what you're experiencing:
- Dryer drum turns normally and makes no unusual noise
- Timer advances through the cycle
- Control panel lights up and responds to buttons
- No heat whatsoever, or intermittent weak heat
- Clothes come out damp or take 2-3 cycles to fully dry
- No burning smell or tripped breaker (if those are present, stop and call a pro)
If that's your situation, keep reading. If your dryer won't start at all or the drum doesn't turn, you've got a different issue.
Cause #1: Failed Radiant Flame Sensor (Most Likely)
Probability: 40-50% of no-heat cases
The radiant flame sensor (part #338906) sits directly in front of the gas burner and detects whether the igniter has successfully lit the gas. When it fails, the dryer's control board won't allow gas to flow — even if everything else is working perfectly. It's a safety feature that becomes a liability when the sensor ages out.
This part typically lasts 8-12 years, but heavy use or moisture infiltration can kill it sooner. On Whirlpool models like the WED5000DW2, WGD5300SQ0, and 1CWGD5100VQ1, this sensor fails more often than any other heating component.
How to diagnose:
- Unplug the dryer and shut off the gas supply
- Remove the lower front panel (two screws at the top corners, lift and pull)
- Locate the burner assembly on the left side — the flame sensor is the small ceramic part with two wires
- Use a multimeter set to ohms — you should read between 50,000 and 100,000 ohms at room temperature
- If it reads infinite (no continuity) or under 40,000 ohms, it's toast
Even if the sensor tests okay with a cold ohm reading, it can still fail when heated. If you've eliminated other causes and this part is original to a 7+ year old dryer, replace it.
Repair cost: $34 for the part, 30-45 minutes labor if DIY
Cause #2: Blown Thermal Fuse
Probability: 30-35%
The thermal fuse is a one-time safety device that cuts power to the heating element if the dryer overheats. Once it blows, it never resets — you have to replace it. It's usually mounted on the blower housing or inside the burner assembly, depending on your model.
On gas dryers like the WGD9450WW2 and WED7400XW0, a blown thermal fuse will stop the gas valve from opening. The igniter might still glow, but no heat will generate.
What causes it to blow:
- Restricted exhaust vent (90% of cases) — check your vent line for lint buildup or crushed duct
- Clogged lint screen or internal lint buildup around the blower
- Failed blower wheel (less common but worth checking)
How to test: Use a multimeter on continuity mode. The fuse should show zero resistance (complete continuity). If it's open, it's blown. Replace it AND fix the airflow restriction, or the new fuse will blow immediately.
Repair cost: $8-15 for the fuse, but you MUST address the root cause
Cause #3: Faulty Gas Valve Coils
Probability: 15-20%
Your gas dryer has two or three gas valve coils that open the gas valve when the igniter is hot enough. If one coil fails, gas flow stops and the heat cuts out. You'll often see the igniter glow bright orange for 15-30 seconds, then shut off without igniting gas — that's the classic gas valve coil symptom.
These coils rarely fail on newer units, but on models 10+ years old (like the IGD4400SQ0 or GEW9250PW1), they're a legitimate suspect.
Testing: Each coil should read around 1,000-2,000 ohms. If you're getting infinite resistance, replace the coil set. They're inexpensive and sold as a kit.
Repair cost: $20-30 for coil kit
Cause #4: Weak or Failing Igniter
Probability: 10-15%
The igniter draws current through the gas valve coils and heats up to ignite the gas. If it's weak (but not completely dead), it might glow faintly but never reach the temperature needed to open the valve. You'll see a dull orange glow instead of bright white-hot.
On Maytag and Amana models (AGD4475TQ0, AGD4475TQ1), igniters last about 10 years with normal use. They weaken gradually, so intermittent heating or long dry times are early warning signs.
Testing: An igniter should draw 3.2-3.6 amps when working properly. If it's drawing less than 3 amps or glows but doesn't ignite gas within 60 seconds, replace it.
Repair cost: $25-45 for igniter
Cause #5: Broken Cycling Thermostat
Probability: 5-8%
The cycling thermostat (also called the operating thermostat) regulates dryer temperature by cycling the heat on and off. When it fails in the open position, the control board won't send power to the igniter.
This is the least common cause of total no-heat conditions — it's more likely to cause temperature swings or overheating. But on older Whirlpool models like the WED5100SQ0 and WED9200SQ0, it's worth checking if you've ruled out the other four causes.
Testing: It should show continuity at room temperature and open (no continuity) when heated above its rated temp (usually around 140-155°F).
Repair cost: $12-20
When to Call a Pro
If you've tested the flame sensor, thermal fuse, and gas valve coils and they all check out fine, you might be looking at a control board issue or a gas supply problem (regulator, shut-off valve, or low pressure from the meter). Those repairs require a tech with a gas pressure gauge and electrical diagnostics.
Also call a pro if:
- You smell gas at any point — shut off the gas and leave the area
- The igniter doesn't glow at all (could be wiring or control board)
- You're not comfortable working with gas appliances
Most HVAC or appliance repair techs charge $100-150 for a diagnostic visit, and they'll credit that toward the repair if you proceed.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use my dryer if it's not heating?
Yes, but only on the Air Fluff or No Heat setting. Running a timed dry cycle with no heat won't hurt the dryer, but it obviously won't dry your clothes. Don't keep running heat cycles hoping it'll start working — you're just wasting energy and potentially masking a more serious issue like a gas leak or ignition problem.
How do I know if my dryer uses the 338906 flame sensor?
If you have a Whirlpool, Maytag, Kenmore, or Amana gas dryer made after 2000, there's a 95% chance it uses this sensor. Check your model number against the compatibility list (WED5000DW2, WGD5300SQ0, 1CWGD5100VQ1, WED7400XW0, etc.) or pop the lower panel and look for a white ceramic part with two wire terminals in front of the burner tube.
Why does my dryer heat for a few minutes then stop?
That's classic flame sensor failure — the sensor works when cold but loses resistance when it heats up, causing the control board to think there's a flame-out. The dryer shuts off gas as a safety precaution. Replace the 338906 sensor and the problem usually disappears. If the thermal fuse is borderline (testing at the high end of its resistance range), replace it too while you're in there.
Diagnosed the problem?
338906 · In Stock · Fast shipping