GE & Hotpoint Cooktop 12-Inch Radiant Element Parts — Models & Compatibility

Your GE or Hotpoint cooktop's 12-inch dual radiant element is engineered with two separate heating zones — an inner coil for smaller pots and an outer ring for larger cookware. When either section stops heating, you're looking at a failed heating element, not a control board issue. This hub covers the WB30T10130 replacement element that fits dozens of GE Profile, Hotpoint, and RCA cooktop models from the CS975, CS980, and EER2000 series.

Is This the Right Part for Your Model?

Before ordering, you'll need your cooktop's model number. On most GE cooktops, it's printed on a label inside the storage drawer or underneath the front edge of the unit. Match your model against the compatibility list below — this element specifically fits glass-top radiant cooktops with 12-inch dual-zone burners.

Common compatible series include CS975SD, CS980SN, CS980ST, ECBP82, and EER2000 models. If your model number starts with any of these prefixes, you're in the right place.

About This Replacement Part

The WB30T10130 is a 12-inch dual haliant radiant surface element that directly replaces GE part numbers AP4344395, PS2321564, and 1474216. It's designed with two independent heating coils — if your center coil went out but the outer ring still works, that's the classic failure pattern for this element. The inner coil typically burns out first because it cycles more frequently during everyday cooking.

One installer described the repair this way: "Bought replacement element. Unplugged range. Removed 2 screws under range top and glass hinged up. Propped with 2x4. Noticed one of the spade connectors for the inner section of element was broken." That's the real failure mode — broken coils or deteriorated spade connectors cause one heating zone to stop working while the other keeps going.

Common Failure Symptoms

• Element stopped heating entirely — both inner and outer zones don't get hot
• Center coil went out — outer ring works, but inner zone stays cold
• Inner part of element wasn't working — opposite problem, outer zone dead but center heats
• Visible cracks in ceramic element surface — physical damage that prevents heating

What You'll Need for Installation

This is one of the easier cooktop repairs you'll tackle. Most people complete it in 15-30 minutes with basic tools. Here's what you need:

• Phillips screwdriver (for the two screws under the cooktop edge)
• Flathead screwdriver (to pry up the element clamps)
• Pliers (for spade connector removal)
• 2x4 board or sturdy box (to prop up the glass top safely)

Installation Quick Guide

Always unplug the cooktop before starting. Remove the two screws located under the front edge of the cooktop — this lets you hinge the glass top upward. Prop it securely with a 2x4 or cardboard box so you can work underneath safely. Use a flathead screwdriver to carefully pry up the two metal clamps holding the element in place.

When installing the new element, pay attention to the small alignment spikes on the clamp connectors — they need to seat into the matching holes in the ceramic element base. One user noted: "Made sure to line up small spikes on clamp connectors with holes in element (digs into ceramic material)." If those spikes don't align properly, the element won't sit flush and could crack.

Check your spade connectors while you've got everything apart. If the heat shrink insulation looks melted or brittle, replace it before reconnecting. That deteriorated insulation is often why the connector fails in the first place.

Compatible GE & Hotpoint Models

This WB30T10130 element fits the following cooktop models. If you don't see your exact model listed, check the full compatibility chart on the product page or match your model's prefix pattern:

• CS975SD1SS, CS975SD2SS, CS975SD3SS — Profile series glass cooktops
• CS980SN1SS, CS980SN2SS, CS980SN3SS — Profile stainless models
• CS980ST1SS through CS980ST8SS — Profile ST-series (eight model variants)
• ECBP82DM2WW, ECBP82SM2SS — Electric cooktop built-in models
• EER2000M02BB, EER2000M02CC — RCA-branded cooktops

Need the complete list? The product page shows all compatible models with their brand designations.

Why This Part Fails

Radiant elements fail when the nichrome heating wire inside the ceramic housing breaks. This happens gradually — thousands of heating and cooling cycles cause metal fatigue until the wire snaps. The inner coil typically dies first because it's used more often for small pots and pans. You'll know it's failed when that zone stops glowing red even though you've turned it to high.

The spade connectors are the other weak point. They're exposed to intense heat every time you cook, and the insulation eventually degrades. When the connector loses contact, you get intermittent heating or complete failure. If you see blackened or melted plastic around the connector terminals, replace those connectors along with the element.

Parts Pricing & Availability

The WB30T10130 retails for $155.99 at Heima.com. That's significantly less than calling a service tech, who'd charge $200-300 for the same repair including labor. Since this is a 15-30 minute DIY job, you're saving both time and money by handling it yourself.

As one happy customer put it: "I watched a pregnant woman on Youtube do it so how could it be that hard? The trickiest part was finding a box to put under the top to hold it up while I worked under the top to replace the unit. A wrench and a screw driver is all I needed. It beats paying a repair professional or buying a new stove."